India is a land of varied jewellery traditions or parampara which makes traditional jewellery exotic by international standards. So it can be quite overwhelming when you shop for, collect or study Indian Jewellery. In this post, I have compiled a list of things to know about Types of Indian jewellery and their styles so that you know exactly what to expect when you shop for them.
*Post update March 2020
Types of Indian Jewellery
Meenakari
Western term – Enameling
Style Inspiration – Mughals. Later was greatly patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan from the 16th century
Process – Meenakari is enameling or decorating the metallic surface of jewellery with colors. The color portions are engraved (kudhai) for shallow depressions and the enamel dust of the required color ( ground, mixed with water) is then poured into those engravings and heated at high temperature. The colors are filled in accordance to their resistance to heat – white to red. When cooled, its polished with agate for luster. The color accuracy can be guaranteed only when 22- 24K gold is used.
Centres – Jaipur, Delhi, Banaras and Udaipur.
Products – Jewellery, decorative objects like – trays, bowls, showpieces, purses, etc
Kundan
Western term – Gem setting on gold
Style Inspiration -patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan and other royal houses of India
Identity & Process – Kundan is a method of gem setting, consisting of inserting a gold foil between the stones and its mount without soldering or applying heat. Stones are set this way in a prong less method. Often Kundan jewellery is accompanied by meenakari on the reverse.
Alternate Process – The central part of this jewelry is made of lac, the hollow jewelry pieces that are joined to make the Kundan jewellery are bored with holes where precious stones and gems are inserted. The visible lac is covered with highly refined gold. The stones are then set or rather pushed into the cool but pliant gold. When the gold finally hardens, the stones get embedded in it.
Products – Jewellery, accessories, decor objects
Jadau, Jadtar, Jadaii
Western Name – Bezel set Gemstone Jewelry
Style Inspiration – Persians and Mughals. Later was greatly patronized by the Rajputs of Rajasthan from the 16th century
Identity – Traditional Jadau jewellery has stones encrusted on one side and colorful and intricate meenakari on the reverse.
Process – Combination of both Meenakari & kundan. One side of the jewelry is engraved, enameled and the other is embedded with uncut stones (diamonds) – Polki and is further decorated with beads
Products – Jewellery and ornamental objects.
Pachchikam
Western term – Gem setting on silver
Origin – Gujarat & kutch
Process -Similar to kundan and in this case, the stone is set in silver and the process of fixing involves pressing the edges of the stone or glass into the silver and then the grooves are filed, giving it a crude appearance. Uncut precious stones and glass are the hallmark of Pachchikam jewellery.
In the artificial Pachi jewellery currently available in the market, pearls and stones are cased in metal, like petals and stacked to create floral shapes. As gold tone metal is used, the result is often showy in contrast to subtle silver Pachchikam.
Vadaseri or Kemp Jewellery & Temple Jewellery
The jewellery used to adorn the idols was later worn by temple dancers. Eventually, the designs became a part of the Indian woman’s bridal jewelry trousseau.
Region – South India – esp Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh & Karnataka (Mysore)
Identity -Combination of Red & green color glass stones or rubies/emeralds with pearls (as droplets or strands) set in gold or silver dipped in gold is from the town of Vadaseri and hence is named so. Read more about Kemp Jewellery here.
Temple jewellery on the other had refers to pure gold pieces crafted by sculptures who do metal sculptures for temples. Images of gods and goddesses are very common. These are also adorned with green or red stones (sometimes glass sometimes rubies & emeralds) to make them richer. The Swami Jewellery made by P.Orr and sons in the 19th Century was a westernisation of the temple jewellery for the British Audience
Thewa
Western term – Gold Setting on glass
Style Inspiration – Practiced in Rajasthan and reached its zenith duringthe Victorian era. It was popularised by Roopa Vohra in the late 2000s
Identity: Gold sheet backed by coloured glass
Process – fusing an intricately worked thin sheet of gold in 23-carat gold alone(which comprises the design) into handmade, molten, colored glass suggesting gem stones. When set, the plaque can be mounted on a frame, to create jewellery or boxes, vases and goblets. Today, you can get get artificial Thewa in the market for 1/10th the original price or lesser.
Tarkashi
Western Name – Filigree
Style Inspiration – Greek
Process – Pure silver is made into very fine wires by passing it through a wire drawing machine or by hammering by hand After this, the two thinnest wires are heated and wound around a rotating wheel machine to make it as a single wire. This wire is then bent in different ways to give it many different forms and shapes.
Identity – Mesh and wire wrapped look
Products – Jewellery, decorative objects like – trays, bowls, showpieces, purses, etc
Must read resources
- Indian Jewellery: The journal of Indian Art written in 1909 (free copy)
- Traditional Jewellery of India by Oppi Untrachat
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