Temple jewelry also sometimes unknowingly referred to as Kemp Jewelry is a very exclusive, labour intensive art form that both mesmerizes and tantalizes at one shot. Originally crafted to adorn the Indian royalty who then donated them to temples, these were later worn by temple dancers and slowly, the designs became a part of the Indian woman’s bridal jewelry trousseau. Earlier I had provided glimpses into the world of temple jewelry in my Types of jewelry post and Bridal series South post.
The metal work that you see in temple jewelry pieces is extraordinary no doubt, but that is not what entices me. What entices me are the stones used – most notably the Kemp Stones.
What is Kemp Jewelry ?
I have asked this question to many people – jewellers, elders in the family, store owners, but never got a satisfactory answer to this question. A precious jeweller who I spoke to, notes that kemp is just another name for Ruby and it denotes the scarlet colour. However, I remember my Grandma who was a jewellery connoisseur tell me that kemp meant imitation or synthetic stone.Â
Temple jewelry thrived under the patronage of the Cholas, Pandyaas and Rayars rule from the 9th century till the 16th century. Originating from the town of Vadaserry, in Nagercoil district, Temple jewelry, is largely made of silver, and finished with gold leaf work. It was studded with rubies, emeralds, diamonds and pearls . The stones are set in place using a natural wax called Arraku in a gold plated silver bezel. Spinels are increasing used in place of kemp or Ruby stones when it comes to gold plated silver temple jewellery. To learn more about spinels check – gemstones in Red*
Vadassery Jewelry motifs
These frames often have motifs like swan, peacock, parrot and flowers and such designs were used in making padaikams (pendants for long necklaces), Rakodi (hair piece) and pins. Addigai (necklace in the picture) is a choker/collar necklace that has big uncut stones in classic design without any motifs.Â
This form of temple jewelry also referred to as dance jewelry, indicating its use in Bharatanatyam and kuchipudi dance performances) is said to be based on jewelry offered to Temple Deities. It should not be confused with its metal work (gold work) cousin, where sculptures and carving from temples are replicated in miniature form in repousse and then embellished with a few stones.Â
Kemp
 Glass Cabochons referred to as Kemp used to be set in gold many years back (see pic) and were treasured heirloom pieces. Kemp means red color in some Indian Languages (Telugu and kannada), but kemp stones (though generally red) can also be green or blue*. These were called Vadassery jewelry. Glass, colored using natural colors was cut into cabochons and set in frames. Traditionally these stones were flatbacks, but I am seeing use of cut (faceted) stones as well. However, these stones are mostly spinels and not glass kemps. Today, sadly however, the kemp jewelry refers to Imitations made in copper or iron, with gold polish and glass stones.Â
Apart from Jewelry, Kemp Stones were also used in Tanjore paintings. These were originally made from glass using natural colors. This is done by heating, mixing, kneading, and hammer pounding the purified lac and stone colours till a dough like mass is formed. Then the mass is heated and applied to reverse side of the glass. To protect the shine, a strip of gold foil is applied to the back.
Details about the photographs
Necklace – NOT FOR SALE
I hope you find it interesting
Cheers
23 responses to “What is Kemp Jewelry”
So gorgeous! I love the deep red of the glass. Thanks, Divya, I had never ever hear of these stones!
I've always been fascinated by the beautiful Temple jewelry I'd see in pictures. Thank you for sharing the history!
That's an interesting post Sayuri! Elders in the all families always have this obsession for Kemp color when it comes to Silk Saree!!!!! 🙂
thanks everyone
Everytime i saw the word Kemp,i thought of some material/textile.. Only after reading your article here did i even remember that Kemp(u) in Kannada meant the color Red ..so interesting. And when i mentioned this, a Telugu friend of mine told me that Kemp in their language referred to the gem Ruby.
tnx for the informative bit Divya
whenever i saw Kemp in English,i always thought of some textile/material
Now that u mention abt ruby and stones,it suddenly struck me that in Kannada, Kempu means the color Red… and a telgu friend tells me it means Ruby in Telgu
tnx for giving the details Divya
yes Kemp means red color in some Indian Languages (Telugu and kannada), but kemp stones (though generally red) can also be green or blue
Thank you Ms.Divya. I was also searching for informations about Kemp stones and I couldn't find any. Today I tried again and came to your blog. I love to see Jewelry.
Thank you. I was trying to find about Kemp stones. This was informative.
Hope you found the information that you were looking for
Thanks a lot for informative article. It was really helpful.
Any idea as to which city makes best kemp?
I think you can get it easily in bangalore local market shops 🙂 I too got one piece for my wedding collection from there 🙂
Informative,may be it is an alternate stone for ruby.People should know the fact of KEMP STONE so that they will not but at higher cost(In gold).
I am very intrigued by the history that is related to the formation of different jewellery pieces and types. This article has deep rooted information. Really enjoyed reading it. Good work!
In konkani our traditional jewellery has the common names like Kempa necklace for ruby stones, pacchaa for emerald, neelli for the Blue sapphire.and paulle for coral, Motia necklace for pearl and vajra for Diamond.
Thanks for Sharing that information Deepali
kemp stones whether used in any color refer to cabochons (naturally occuring form)of original gems like cabochons of ruby emerald n sapphire that have not been polished or cut. So naturally these were made with cabochons of precious stones. This glass cabochon is a new thing for me could you please research if royals and rich the past chose cabochons of precious stones in their temple jewelry as glass cut beads are imitation and might be modern renderings to offer cheap alternatives for artificial jewelry sets used for dance. I dont think the original making if temple jewelry thrived on fake glass beads set in necklaces.
You are right in a sense that yesteryear Indian royals have worn cabochans of rubies and emeralds in their temple jewelry. But that does not take away from the fact that glass (and glass beads) was used as one of the main jewelry making supplies in India ever since the Harappan period. My best guess is that both real gemstones and glass could have be used in the past. Gemstones by royals and glass by the merchant class or officers
Awesome write up. Very informative.
Thanks for reading and commenting
Thank you for sharing the details.
Beautiful and attractive blog. Thank you for sharing this wonderful blog with us. Keep Sharing.Your article is very interesting and I liked your way to express your views in this post.
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