What are Polki diamonds

Polki diamonds, are slabs of natural diamonds with a rough edge. Unlike diamonds, which undergo cutting (faceting) and polishing to enhance their brilliance and shape, polki diamonds have uneven shapes. They are perfect for those who prefer an old world charm.

‘The Nizam of Hyderabad necklace’. An antique diamond, emerald and enamel necklace, mid to late 19th century. The larger diamonds are cut diamonds and the smaller ones uncut

What is Polki?

Polki are slivers or slabs of diamonds. Since they lack the fire (brilliance) brought about by faceting, they are not sparkly like the brilliant cut diamonds. Polki diamonds are commonly used in Indian jewellery, particularly in bridal pieces made and worn in North and North-western India. You can spot them in Kundan (gem set), meenakari (enamelled) and Jadau (uncut gem set) jewellery. They are prized for their rustic charm, unique appearance, and historical significance.

They are used in various types of jewellery, including necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, and maang tikka (forehead ornaments), adding a touch of elegance and sophistication to any ensemble. The best examples of polki jewellery can be found in Nizam jewellery.

nizam necklace — Polki and Emerald Nizam necklace

Jadau Technique

Introduced in India by the Mughals, jadau is the technique of setting uncut diamonds and other gemstones in gold without the use of prongs. Jadau derives its name from the colloquial term ‘jad’ or ‘jadai’ (which means to embed). The open-back setting of polki diamonds, are designed to showcase the natural beauty of the diamonds while ensuring their security and durability. Since the back is open, it allows light to pass through and enhance their sparkle. Additionally, silver foil is used behind the diamonds to further enhance their brilliance. Polki jewellery can be identified by the green enamel line/edging around the bezel.

Check out a shot video of Jadau setting above.

Nita Ambani uncut diamond necklace — Look at the extra large uncut diamonds in the necklace worn by Ms. Nita Ambani

Difference between polki, table cut and rose cut diamonds

While polki diamonds are raw, showcasing the natural beauty of the diamond, table-cut diamonds feature a flat surface with geometric facets. Table-cut diamonds have truncated corners, resembling a table in appearance. Rose-cut diamonds have a rounded, domed shape with triangular facets arranged in a symmetrical pattern. They have a have a rounded, convex shape with a faceted crown.

In the west table-cut diamonds were popular during the Renaissance and Baroque periods. Rose cut on the other hand, originated in the 16th century and was popular during the the late 17th century. AJU of Lang Antiques also lists a cut of diamond from India, known as the Mughal cut. This is however, the first time that I am coming across this word.

A polki for every budget

The popularity of polki in India can be seen by the number of faux polki or look alike jewellery that you will see flooding the market. A beautiful example is the one from Vastraa jewellery seen below.

It is virtually impossible to look at the image of a polki necklace or earrings and find out whether natural diamonds or synthetic stimulants have been used. There is an exceptional range of moissanite polki jewellery available as well. The only way to buy authentic polki diamonds is to purchase a piece from a reputed jewellery in store who will give you an authenticity certificate.

I hope you find it interesting

Cheers

2 responses to “What are Polki diamonds”

Rozantia Petkova

12/06/2024

I didn’t know rough diamonds were popular for finished jewelry! They are still expensive but nevertheless affordable if you need one 🙂

1. Divya
  
  15/06/2024
  
  Polki is similar to cut diamonds with regard to price or sometimes higher. Some perceive it to be inferior as it still has many inclusions that diamond cutters remove during cutting. While other perceive it to be superior as it is not enhanced using any artificial methods apart from basic shaping. It is all about the look that one wants.