These days I am creating e-learning modules so that my students can study safely from their homes. We were just about to study Royal Indian costumes, in one subject, when school closure was announced. Going through my notes made me realise that I was sitting on a treasure trove of historical information for my blog. I begin with Indian Nizam jewellery converting my notes into articles. Afterall, I did start this blog to share my research I had collected over the years. If you are new to Indian jewellery then, you could read my post of Types of Indian jewellery which explains different traditional techniques . It may allow you to appreciate this post better.
The Nizams of Hyderabad
The Nizams (Nizam-ul-Mulk + Administrator of the realm) of Hyderabad, trace their lineage back to Mir Qamar-ud-Din Siddiqi, a viceroy of the Deccan under the Mughal emperors from 1713 to 1721. He declared himself independent after Emperor Aurangazeb’s death and ruled under the title Asaf Jah. The Nizams were extremely wealthy, due to the diamond mines in the region. They also owned troves of emeralds, Burmese rubies and Basara pearls. Their aesthetics that is a synthesis of Deccani, Mughal, and European influences is the epitome of luxury. The jewellery is from 18th to early 20th century.
Nizam Asaf Jah VI was known for his fashionable lifestyle. An entire wing of his palace is said to have been dedicated to clothes as he would not repeat the same garment more than twice. Mir Osman Ali Khan, the 7th Nizam used the 400 carat Jacob diamond as a paper weight. He is said to have had enough pearls to fill an Olympic sized swimming pool. However, he is said to have led an extreme life wearing tattered patched clothes while buying expensive cars.
Indian Nizam jewellery
The male Nizam dress comprised of a sherwani kurta, trousers and a turban. The women wore a variation of the four part Mughal court dress. It consisted of a blouse, longer tunic or kurta, churidar bottoms and a long dupatta wrapped around the body like a saree. In the later period, they shifted to saree and blouse. To signify their royal persona, they were decked with jewels and gemstones from head to toe. See a list below. To know more about the pieces, refer to The Jewels of Nizam by the expert Usha R Balakrishnam. (Book is now available for free on Archives.org)
Typology of Indian Nizam jewellery
Head ornaments other the the Choti Taviz and torso ornaments were typically worn by men.
Head
- Sarpech – High perched aigrette worn in the center of the Turban
- Sarpatti – string/stone extensions to the sarpech that can be tied around the head
- Kalgi – plume or aigrette
- Turra – a stylised bird (parrot) or “S” shaped piece from which droplets of pearls or rubies hang
- Choti Taviz – Amulet worn on the hair (plait). It is a little box suspended by pearls and resting on the shoulder or chest. As seen in the portrait above.
Nose
- Nath – nose ring/barbell
- Laung – clove like nose stud
Ears
Women wore multiple earrings (on multiple piercings) in both ears. This was common practice in South India in the 19th century.
- Karanphul – Jhumka earrings
- Pankiyan/Chanbali – Crescent shaped earrings
- Butte – pearl studs
- Tinkay – gold studs
- Chowkaray – Pearl and emerald hoop
- Chakriyan – Circular kundan studs
- Antiyan – large loop of gold with pearls
- Kanval – Ear drops
- Kanthi Maraveed with Champakali (Jasmine bud) motif. The necklace is in Silver and has a Pacchikam pendant | Image source – Jewels of Nizam book
Neck
Many of the diamond and gold pendant had enamelling, meenakari on the reverse.
- Kanthi – short (pearl and emerald) necklace.
- Haar Murassa – Necklace with lotus shapes and double pendant.
- Padak Muraveed – Pearl and emerald necklace with an emerald pendant. (Padak=pendant)
- Chintak – Diamond collar/choker
- Jugni – 7 strand twisted pearl necklace with pear shaped pendant. As seen in the portrait above.
- Hasli- Torque
- Sath Larha – 7 strand necklace with triangular pendants.
Chintak murassa | Image source – Jewels of Nizam by Usha R Balakrishnan
Upper Torso and Waist
- Gundiyan – buttons
- Tora Ghariyal – Pocket watch
- Baglus – Belt with buckle
- Partalanuma – Belt with dagger sheath
Hands and fingers
- Bujband, Bazuband – armbands/armlets
- Dasthband
- Taviz Dand – Amulet tieup
- Kangani – Thick Bangles near the elbow
- Sumran – bracelets
- Pahunchiyan – Kundan bracelets
- Bangles
- Anghoti – Finger rings
Legs
- Tora Paon, Paizeb – anklet variations
- Anwat Paon – toe rings
Decline of the Nizams
After the Independence of India, Hyderabad was the last state to join India. As with many other princely rulers, Nizam Mukkaram Jah (grandson of Osman Ali Khan) found it impossible to manage his inheritance and pay his staff. The Caliphate which was theirs by marital rights was in disarray as well. By the 1960s nearly 2400+ descendants of the Nizams filed suits and the wealth was distributed in 54 trusts. As financial Chaos ensued, Mukkaram Jah fled to Australia. He ran a sheep farm which he then sold to pay off his creditors. As a consequence, he retired to a two bedroom flat in Turkey.
Palaces and building were sealed by the courts as they were being looted. Fast forward to 2000s Princess Esra, the first wife of Mukkaram Jah, separated from him for 30 years reconciled with him. She wanted to revive the Falaknuma Palace and Chowmahalla palace and save whatever was left of their fortune. Her lawyer, Barrister Vijay Shankardass, settled with the claimants, selling the jewels locked in trust to the Government of India for at a quarter of the market price.
Reclaiming the Chowmahalla
In 2.5 years, Princess Esra with the help of Martand Singh, Rahul Jain, Rahul Mehrotra and Anuradha Naik turned Chowmahalla, into a museum. Armor, swords, and weapons that were piled up in small mountains, royal portraits, sari and piles of dresses were catalogued and displayed. The Falaknuma palace is a luxury heritage stay belonging to the Taj group of hotels.
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Display and Auction of Royal jewels
In July 2019, Nearly 35 pieces of Indian Nizam jewellery were sold by Christies during ‘Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence’ auction. It is sad that such marvels of Indian heritage are sold off in other countries with the family having no access to them. The consolation is that 173 pieces owned by the government of India, was on display for the third time at the National Museum in New Delhi in May 2019.
While the story of Nizams has all the fairytale elements, it is entrenched in the hardships of reality. It is a story that begins and ends in the determination of one person to create, protect and showcase their identity. Hoping to bring you more such bejewelled stories from India’s past soon.
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