A year ago, I wrote on my Linkedin page about the rise in popularity of Korean made and Korean inspired costume jewellery in India. Made of an alloy or stainless steel and plated in gold tone, these are mostly replicas of jewellery (particularly earrings) worn in the 90’s in the West. The most common designs include large pearl studs, golden domes, hoops, and animal forms (rings and bracelets) such as those made by Cartier. They claim to be anti-tarnish, water proof and hence high quality and definitely cheaper than their gold-plated counterparts sold by American and European brands. Several Indian brands were thriving in 2023 and 2024 by importing such jewellery and selling them online. Many more brands started to make similar jewellery in India. But at the moment, many of these brands are facing financial difficulty and running clearance sales just to survive.
In my opinion, one of the reasons for their failure apart from raising costs and inventory mismanagement is that their anti tarnish jewellery actually tarnishes resulting in high returns and customer complaints. Before we look at why anti-tarnish jewellery tarnishes, let us try to understand tarnish and the cultural milieu surrounding it.
What is tarnish
Tarnish is the result of a chemical reaction that metals such as copper, brass, silver aluminium, magnesium undergo when they react with atmospheric elements. It is a thin layer of meta oxide on the surfact of the metal object giving a dull appearance. Tarnish, is not rust. It acutally protects the inner layers of the metal from interacting with the elements.
Common accelerants for tarnish in jewellery includes exposure to air (especially sulphur compounds in the air), moisture, chemicals, and gases. High heat and humidity as seen in India are best friends of tarnish and this gets worse in coastal areas.
Tarnish Vs Oxidation
While the words tarnish and oxidation are often used interchangeably, oxidation is the process of chemical reaction and tarnish is the outcome. Oxidation in jewellery – especially in copper jewellery, silver jewellery and its look-alike costume counterparts made of cupro-nickel (German Silver) can often be desirable. The patina gives a worn-in feeling to the jewellery and brings out fine details, elevating its attractiveness. Check my recent post on How to oxidise jewellery at home to learn various methods by which you can safely oxidise your jewellery.
Does water tarnish jewellery?
Many brands sell jewellery labelled as water-proof. This is a scam. If you look at the fine print of websites selling these waterproof, anti-tarnish products, they will ask you to use the products “carefully, away from sweat, moisture & water.” What is next – keep your jewellery away from air?
Waterproof, anti-tarnish jewellery is a Scam!
Water will damage metal jewellery only if the jewellery is left submerged or if the water has high levels of chemicals such as cholrine dissolved in it. Short exposure to water, such as washing of hands with plain water does not damage most base metal jewellery.
However, water mixed with other chemicals, such as handwash or hand-sanitizer, boiling water, and even rain will damage it. But the biggest culprit is sweat laden with chemicals from our soaps, shampoos, lotions, perfumes, medicines that we take that reacts with the coating or plating on the metal, even removing it. In case of base metals such as copper, brass or gold, it hastens the natural oxidation process. Anti-tarnish finish protects the metal from such interactions and resists tarnish.
What is Anti-tarnish jewellery?
Contrary to popular opinion, there is no such thing as anti-tarnish jewellery – only an anti-tarnish finish on jewellery. It is achieved by either passivation or by physical vapor deposition (PVD) of gold on a stainless steel base. A clear lacquer coating is also given to protect the emtal and make it more reflective (shiny). We do this when we use a spray sealant or a clear nail coating or a varnish on metal. PVD is superior to electroplating in which electricity is used to deposit the metal on the surface of the object. Vermeil which is 925 silver plated with 24K gold is also only electroplated.
However, some metals such as stainless steel, titanium, and argentium silver resist tarnish to a great degree. While 24K gold is inert, 22K and below can tarnish overtime depending on the metals used in the alloy.
Passivation in jewellery
Passivation is the process of making the surface of a metal passive or less reactive to elements in the atmosphere. Through a chemical treat that forms a thin, transparent oxide layer on the surface it prevents corrosion by increasing resistance to corrosion. This self assembled monlayer (S.A.M) is typically applied to metals like stainless steel or titanium. When done correctly, the treatment is virtually undetectable to the naked eye and does not improve the luster or reflectivity of the surface as many jewellery brands claim. Watch the video below for more details.
Why is Anti-tarnish jewellery preferred in India
Indians are not just fascinated by gold, we are devoted to it. But with gold prices sky rocketing, it is not possible to buy trendy gold jewellery. Gold has become a holier-than-thou investment commodity. Read more about the best way to invest in gold in 2025 in my recent blog post here.
Since 24k gold is tarnish reistant, it symbolises purity, richness and royalty. Tarnish represents the opposite – it is considered impure, low, and undesirable. This devotion to gold extends beyond the metal to the colour. Rolled-gold (gold rolled on to the base metal) commonly known as gold-filled in the western world reigns the world of costume jewellery in India. Though it is relatively resistant to tarnish, it cannot keep up with the humidity and the layers of chemicals that we wear now on the skin.
I have heard people say that rolled gold jewellery made in the 70s and 80s remained intact for several areas. However, the costume jewellery produced at the present literally pales in comparison. While I agree that quality of production and materials used have gone down, people did not put these many chemicals, particularly acids on their skin in the 70s or the 80s.
Why does anti-tarnish jewellery tarnish?
There are several reasons. The most common being the substandard quality of the base metal and the chemicals used in the process. The quality and thickness of the coating/plating used, incorrect technique and improper storage are other important reasons. These are wear out the protective layer exposing the metal. The chemicals, especially, acids that we use in skincare chip away at the finish when used on a regular basis.
The bottomline is, do not fall for the lure of waterproof, anti-tarnish jewellery. Definetely, do not waste your money on mass-produced yet expensive plated jewellery. It is no easier to maintain than any other kind of jewellery. It is not allergy-proof. Instead, consider wearing your jewellery (any jewellery) away from high heat, humidity and over your clothing to avoid direct contact with the skin. Remove it when travelling if possible and wipe it clean immediately. Air dry it before storing your jewellery, preferably in their own pouches to avoid scratches. For, you have to take care of your jewellery if you want it to last.
I hope you find it interesting
Cheers
What do you think?