How to oxidise jewellery at home

As I wrote about my trip to the Keezhadi museum to look at antique beads at Keezhadi, I found myself romanticising the natural beauty of oxidation in jewellery. I am not a fan of oxidised German Silver (Cupro nickel/White copper) jewellery and dislike its antique brass counterparts which are created by dipping the products in a black chemical. However, I enjoy the subtle yet rich patina brought about through a physical and chemical reaction on base and fine metals. While some communities prize the worn-in delicateness brought about by patina, in many cultures, it is frowned upon and shiny metal is preferred. That said, here are some tips on how to oxidise jewellery at home particularly those made of silver, copper and brass for those who are into that aesthetic.

Oxidation as a process Vs a product

Before I move on to the methods, let us for a moment understand what oxidation is. Oxidation occurs when metals react with oxygen, sulfur, or other chemicals to form a tarnish or patina. Some metals such silver, iron, copper, and alloys such as brass and bronze oxidise naturally over time. However, the process can be accelerated using different agents. Additional colours and effects, such as Verdigris, can be introduced. Unlike rust or deep oxidation, which cause long-term damage, patina enhances aesthetic appeal.

On the other hand, the oxidised costume jewellery sold in the market as shown in the AI generated image above is made differently. The pieces are dipped in an ink like chemical that does not damage the metal but rather alters its surface appearance, creating a darkened effect that enhances textures and designs.

Why Oxidise jewellery

Oxidation is a great way to add depth, character, and an antique look to your pieces. While copper and silver oxidise to black, brass oxidises to a brilliant gold. You can also add a coloured patina such as a sea green (Verdigris), soft red or a burnt yellow. You can darken recessed areas for contrast and bring out or “lift up” metal textures.

How to oxidise jewellery at home

The easiest way to oxidise jewellery at home depends on the time and materials that you have on hand. But before you oxidise jewellery or metal components, you must clean it. Follow instructions on this post on “how to clean copper and brass sheets.” I clean silver similarly using vinegar and salt followed by a liquid soap cleaner.

Use eggs

If you have access to hard-boiled eggs, slightly mash them and place the jewellery that you want oxidised with them in a sealed container or a ziplock bag. The sulfur released from the egg reacts with the metal, creating a patina over several hours. You can use components that have stones studded provided the stones can be washed with a brush later. Avoid items with prong settings. Though it is completely natural and non-toxic, it is unreliable and produces uneven results.

Ammonia and Salt Fuming

Place your copper or brass components in a sealed container with ammonia and salt. The fumes will cause oxidation, producing blue-green patinas. Much like the eggs, it is unreliable, particularly with silver. The odour may cause some breathing issues. But if you are lucky, it will produce unique, beautiful, and natural-looking patina.

Flame painting or Heat Patina

This is typically the first step of anneal metal sheet or wire. You can use a micro torch (butane or propane) is used to heat the metal. The heat causing oxidation that results in unique colours, including reds, purples, and blues. You can also do this on a stove top with an open flame as well. I recommend this technique only for components in the making and not for finished jewellery that may have other materials that react drastically to heat.

While I have had great success flame painting sheet metal components, I have had the coating wear off in wire. But Rozantia of Bairozan uses heat to anneal and patina wire for her jewellery at the same time and results are stunning.

Gun blue

Gun bluing solutions produce a blackened finish on steel but can also be applied to metals such as brass, bronze, copper, and sterling silver. Pearl of Beading Gem has an oldie but goldie post on using Gun blue to patina jewellery. It has no smell and produces an even colour. However, it is hard to come by in many countries including India.

I have no personal experience with using eggs, ammonia or Gun Blue. Therefore, the views offered are those collected from either students or friends who have used these methods.

Liver of Sulphur

My go to method of oxidation is LOS – Liver of sulphur which is potassium sulphide. While it emits a rotten egg odour, it is very easy to work with, available, has a long shelf life and can be used for both components and finished jewellery. I use the Liver of Sulfur Extended Life Gel by Beadsmith. This is also a great brand for ergonomically designed tools such as pliers. Not only can you darken the entire piece of metal using LOS, you can also paint lines or dots with a brush to add dark patterns. However, the patterns will go away if you scrub or polish the piece afterwards.

Sealing your Oxidised jewellery

Once you’ve achieved the desired oxidation, it’s important to seal your jewellery to preserve the finish. To maintain the oxidised finish, consider the following sealing options:

• Renaissance Wax – Provides a subtle shine and protects from further oxidation. You need to reapply every 3-6 months to maintain the look.
• Glaze and Lacquer – These sealants lock in colour and prevent tarnishing. Spray variants are user-friendly and cost-effective. However, they are alcohol based and may not work on all metals. The liquid ones take time to dry and require a dust free drying environment. They are mostly available in large quantities and are great for wholesale work but will be expensive if you want to seal only 1-2 pieces.
• Vintaj Patina sealant – A liquid chemical for maintaining the patina.
• Nail polish top coat – Cheapest and most suitable for a few pieces and small sizes

Oxidising jewellery is a fun and rewarding process that allows for experimentation with textures and colors. By understanding how these techniques work, you can choose the best process for your projects.

Do you have a favorite oxidation method? Share your experiences in the comments below!

I hope you find it interesting

Cheers