Ever since its inauguration in March 2023, I had been planning a trip to the Keezhadi Museum. Eventually, at the end of December 2024, I visited this remarkable place. The Keezhadi Museum, located in Keezhadi (also spelled Keeladi) near Madurai in the Sivagangai district of Tamil Nadu, is an ancient history museum showcasing the Vaigai River Coastal Civilization. The excavations at Keezhadi, Kontakhai, Manalur, and Akaram, conducted since 2014 in nine phases, have unearthed a treasure trove of artifacts. However, objects obstained from only the first seven phases can be seen at the museum. According to Karrupaswamy, the watchman at the Keezhadi excavation site, only 10% of the 110-acre site has been fully excavated, with just one site currently open to visitors. My journey into Keezhadi’s past began here, with the scent of freshly turned earth and the whispers of history carried by the wind.
Keezhadi Excavation site
The discoveries at Keezhadi have significantly altered historical timelines, pushing the origins of the Sangam Age back to 800 BCE. With further analysis underway, experts speculate that the site could be at least 3,000 years old. These revelations challenge previous historical narratives, sparking debates among scholars and add to the existing controversies about the site and the people who had worked here. The credit for the initial excavations go to the archaelogist Mr. K Amarnath Ramakrishna and the museum to Ms. Kanimozhi who filed a case to retain the objects within the state. This video in Tamil with English subtitles by Big Bang Bogan provides a comprehensive view of the site, the museum and how it was setup.
Stepping onto the excavation site was akin to time travel. Walking along the narrow ridges between excavation pits, I marveled at the distinct layers of sand, each varying in color and texture. Visible remnants of ancient pottery and the photographs on the side banners, bared details of a long-lost civilization. A partially unearthed burial chamber stood in solemn silence, a poignant reminder of the lives once lived here.
My imagination took flight as the haunting Tamil verse ஈசன் ஆளும் சாம்பல் மேல் உழன்று ஈசல் போலே அலைவீர்ப் பார் (You will sway like a dragonfly over the ashes of a city that God once ruled) from Un Mela Aasadhan song in the 2009 film Aayirathil Oruvan echoed in my mind. I visualised women clad in fine cottons, shell bangles and glass beads arranging pots while their children played. The experience was both surreal and magical.
A Trip to Keezhadi Museum
Spanning 7.5 acres, the museum is designed as a series of interconnected houses inspired by the traditional Chettinad architectural style. The structures gleam with Athangudi tiles in vibrant hues, their intricate patterns reflecting the region’s artistic heritage. The terracotta roof tiles radiate warmth under the afternoon sun, while the broad balconies and shaded corridors offer a cool respite. The houses, some featuring first-floor exhibits, are equipped with elevators, ensuring accessibility for all visitors.
There are seven galleries and two interaction zones. The 15-min short film followed by the expansive maps of various digs around Tamil Nadu are a must see in the introductory gallery. There is a VR space to experience ancient pottery making and digital tables where you can play traditional games such as the Aadu-puli attam (Tiger and the goats).
At the heart of the museum complex lies a shared courtyard, where a serene pond glistens under the sky. Structures dot the space, inviting visitors to pause, rest, and absorb the atmosphere. The neighbouring green fields, occasional rustling of leaves, bird calls and the soft murmurs of fellow travellers create an ambiance that is rustic, Facilities include two sets of washrooms and a canteen offering simple refreshments. However, I would recommend bringing your own food and water.
What makes Keezhadi special?
Much like Sumeria which was a Tigris-Euphrates civilisation and Harappa-Mohenjadaro which was the Indus-Saraswati civilisation, Keezhadi was also a river based civilisation. Carbon dating of objects, puts it in par with the Vedic civilisation in the Gangetic plains or even earlier. While there are several older archaelogical sites in Tamil Nadu, Keezhadi is special not only due to the number and kind of objects that have been excavated but also what they represent.
Carbon dating of excavated objects places it on par with, if not older than, the Vedic civilization of the Gangetic plains. While Tamil Nadu is home to several ancient archaeological sites, Keezhadi stands out due to the sheer volume and diversity of its artifacts, which provide profound insights into early Tamil society. Ancient Tamil texts, such as Sangam literature (Aranaanooru and Puranaanooru) and Silappathikaram, describe life in and around Madurai. The findings at Keezhadi corroborate these literary accounts, transforming what was once considered fiction into historical fact.
Language and literacy
A well-developed script is a hallmark of a sophisticated civilization. Among the 700,000 potsherds unearthed at Keezhadi, many bear inscriptions in Tamil-Brahmi (Tamili) script. Earlier discoveries of Tamil-Brahmi were largely confined to rock and stone inscriptions, but here, the script appears on everyday household items. This suggests that literacy was widespread, pointing to the antiquity of the Tamil language. Holding a fragment of a pot, one can almost feel the fingers that once etched those symbols—messages from a distant past, still waiting to be fully understood.
Urban planning
The excavated structures reveal that the inhabitants of Keezhadi built homes with sturdy brick walls and wooden roofs. Water conservation was a well-thought-out necessity, evident in the presence of ring wells (Uraiganar) and terracotta pipelines (Sudumann) that filtered and transported water. The settlement also had an advanced drainage system, demonstrating an impressive understanding of urban planning.
Agriculture gallery
Charts detailing the plants and vegetables cultivated showcases Keezhadi as a rich agarian society. Grains have also been found in some of the pots indicating the food preferences of the civilisation. The people seemed to have raised oxen, cow, buffulo and sheep. The bas relief humped bull at the entrance with links to jallikattu brings about the Tamil pride.
Pottery & metallurgy
A variety of pottery items have been excavated, including vessels used for storing alcohol, dairy products, grains, and vegetables. The museum displays a fascinating range of redware, black-and-red ware, rouletted ware and arretines. Many pots bear script inscriptions, while others showcase symbols like fish and bulls—some of which closely resemble markings found in the Indus-Saraswati civilization.
The evidence of iron-smelting sites and tol-making sheds reveal the expertise of its blacksmiths. Artefacts such as arrowheads, knives, and nails suggest not just survival, but an evolving, industrious community.
Lifestyle & Trade
The exhibition designers have brought about the essence of the lifestyle of the people using both artefacts as well as animation films. There are magnificent exhibits showcasing beads, spinning whorls, game pieces and more. I will elaborate this section in an upcoming post on beads at Keezhadi.
My trip to the Keezhadi museum was a journey through time, offering an intimate connection with the past and its enduring legacy. I came out exhausted but enlightened.
This is a museum that every Tamilian, every Indian should see.
To be continued in part II.
Details
Visit the excavation site before your visit the museum (location). You will need about 15 minutes for the site and about three hours for the museum ( four, if you include time for lunch and rest).
Tips – Wear comfortable footwear and airy clothing. Pack a lunch/snack and water when you go and have a picnic in the stone mandapams (shelters) in the complex. Visit during the cooler months of the year if possible.
Timings – 10AM to 6PM on weekdays (closed on tuesday), open till 7pm on the weekends
Ticket charges – Adult Rs 15 per person, Child Rs 10 per person, School students Rs 5 per student. Photography charges depend on the type of camera. Mobile photography is allowed and free.
I hope you find it interesting
Cheers!
Leave a Reply