As a child, I was told that cowrie shells held magical powers. Gypsies (that soothsayers) and astrologers could use them to learn the past and future. It was not something that you wore or handled without thought. However, during my days as a content writer, I came to know that cowrie shells were used to ward of evil eye. Hence they were used in the making of door hangers and other festive decor. From that point forward, I have been fascinated with Cowrie shell jewellery. I happened to buy a Cowrie necklace, handmade by a tribal woman at Shanthiniketan in 2016. But it has taken three more years, for me to make Cowrie shell jewellery.
Cowrie shell
Cypraeidae are a family of marine snails that are found in the Indian ocean. Marine gastropods belonging to that family are commonly known as Cowrie. The other words/pronunciations for Cowrie are – Kaudi, Kauli, and gauli. The shells are used as counters in various traditional board games – particularly those that involve some concept of wealth. I remember spending many hours as a kid playing Pallankuzhi, a traditional counting game with the shells.
Cowrie as money
In many ancient cultures, strings or pouches of cowrie shells (Monetaria moneta) were used as payment. According to Cultures of West Africa, Arab traders could have introduced the concept of shell money in the 8th century. Other forms of money (particularly payments) include gold and silver, salt bars, rings, beads, etc. It is said that in Africa, Europeans, found it easier to trade in cowrie (initially) due to its widespread acceptance. However, overtime, the practice died away as it was difficult to store, transport or count large amounts of cowrie for that matter. Ghana’s cedi (currency) is said mean cowrie in the Akan language.
Cowrie – symbolism and myths
The cowrie shell has often been associated with a pregnant belly on one side and a vagina on the other. It is associated with Shakti or feminine power that gives life and in continuation prosperity. Therefore, it is no wonder that the shells represent wealth. Several mainstream Hindu and tribal practices of divination include the use of cowrie shells. Ancestral Voices document some interesting myths and origin stories of Cowrie in African culture. A string of cowrie shells or a Cowrie shell jewellery is a great gift to give to a love one. Since the gift symbolises the gift of wealth, fertility, and blessing, it must always be given with good intentions and positivity.
Cowrie shell jewellery
Here in this post, are images of several cowrie shell jewellery from my Banjaran dreams collection. with the exception of the yellow choker necklace all the pieces featured here are available for sale.
Red Mirror necklace
This is a statement necklace with a hand embroidered Banjara mirror in the focus. Tiny seed beads and Cowrie shells edge the pendant. The necklaces is a link chain with three shells hanging asymmetrically as charms. The necklace does not have matching earrings. This Red mirror pendant has traditional broken cowrie (back will be broken as per traditional culture) unlike all the other cowrie pieces in the piece and collection which has full cowrie shells. This necklace is for sale.
Mirror work and Cowrie necklace
In this necklace, I have hand stitched cowrie shells to a Banjara mirror work embroidery patch. The necklace is a playful mix of glass beads and blue colored chain. The necklace comes with matching blue bead earrings and is for sale.
The splendour of Gold
The pieces that I wear the maximum from my personal collections are a mix of neutral colours and gold. This colour combination suits most Indian wear and work effortlessly with Indo-western too. So it surprised me, when I realised that I have never made a brown, gray and gold piece in all 10 years of Sayuri. This piece, with its polki focal and golden metal beads, it is geared more towards the upcoming festive season. As it is in a neutral palette (gold is a neutral colour in India!!) it is a multitasking piece. It is a great necklace to have when you are travelling to attend a wedding or other festivities. This necklace is available for sale; Cowrie earrings with studs can be made on demand.
Kalamkari and Cowrie
I thought of this design while reading about the role of Cowrie in African culture. I started to visualise stunning patterns in reds and blues – in beads and in textiles. The only fabric in Indian textiles, that instantly came to my mind was Kalamkari. Thus was born this chic yet bohemian necklace. This necklace is available for sale; Cowrie earrings with studs can be made on demand.
Cowrie shell earrings
After a lot of necklaces, here is a pair of fabric earrings. While the tape is machine embroidered, I have hand sewn the binding and the cowrie to make a artisan creation. Earrings are available for sale. I can make a similar pendant if anyone is interested. You can find more Pendant and earring sets from this collection here. Don’t miss the tropical print and cowrie necklace and earrings while you are there.
If all this information, doesn’t help make up your mind to buy Cowrie shell jewellery, then read this. Cowrie shells are one of the biggest trends of FW 2019-20 and it predicted to stay put in SS20 as well. International brands are using plated and colored faux cowrie apart from real ones on their apparel, accessory and jewellery collections.
Do visit the collection page here, to take a look at the entire collection. As promised, I am adding to it on a weekly basis. I look forward to reading your thought, feedback and advice on this collection. Please do share them in the comments section. I will be back soon with background stories on the other pieces.
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