Stamped solder jewellery

Typically when people learn to solder, they do so with a rod or iron and then move on to torch. I did the reverse. I was introduced to the micro torch years ago and even though I do not solder on a regular basis, I am comfortable with it. However, the soldering iron is a different story. This past semester, my costume jewellery class was chaotic. We had a marathon offline module followed by online classes. Hence, my students did not get torch time in the lab. As is the wont of students, they felt that using only cold connections to join metal was limiting. They wanted to solder but with an iron. Furthermore, they kept asking me for demo and I was completely lost as I had never used one before. To make sure that I am prepared for such queries in the future, I bought a soldering iron and decided to try out some stamped solder jewellery.

Soldering – Torch, Iron and gun

Soldering is the process of joining two metal surfaces using a solder joint. A torch, iron or rod and a gun can be used to achieve a soldered joint depending on the requirement of design and the metal. In the torch method, gas – butane or propane is used with a torch to produce a focused flame. We heat the fluxed metal and the solder  flows. An iron or rod uses electricity. The hot iron melts the solder and it is used to apply the solder on the fluxed joint. This method is used in electronic boards and stain glass crafts as well. The soldering gun looks like a glue gun but with an iron tip and is used when you need more heat and power. Check this electronics hub page for more differences.

Stamped solder jewellery

Stamped soldering is a process of melting/adding extra solder and then texturising it using red rubber stamps. It has been pioneered and popularised by Laura Beth Love. She has authored two books Boho Chic jewelry and Soldered Alchemy of which I have the former and followed it for projects in this post. I have created a few pieces following a similar stamped technique earlier using a soldering torch by it is much more suitable to an iron. My plan was to make one pendant, a brooch and a pair of earrings. But after a few errors in judgement and making, I ended up getting three components that I am sort of happy with.

Stamped solder jewellery making process and learning

As per Laura’s tutorial, I started by forming 16g copper wire into required shapes. I hammered and cleaned them. I set up my soldering station on a magnesia board with my iron, silver solder, flux and a wet sponge. Very carefully, I melted the silver solder and stamped it, re-melting and revising until I got what I wanted. It took several tries and lots of wasteage to get the solder to flow. Maybe because my solder is 5 years old it was clumpy. I am not happy with how the back turned out either. Any tips to get a cleanly soldered look with be appreciated.

I don’t understand why people prefer a soldering iron to a torch. Compared to the the flame and a gas filled canister probably a soldering iron looks less intimidating. But it is sinister and a hell of lot more difficult to clean. My iron became crusty and dirty quickly. I failed at every attempt at cleaning it. I wrote to Laura who suggested a few solutions, including using Sal ammoniac to clean, which I will be trying out this week.

Styling your Stamped solder jewellery

I finished my components by wire wrapping some Swarovski crystals and glass crystals to them. Oxidised stamped solder components when used along with crystals give a gothic vibe. It would be ideal to pair them with a black suit and lace bralette or a black gothic Lolita dress as seen here. Another option would be a fitted top or bralette with a lace skirt for a dressy but wearable look. While I had a black lace skirt, I did not have a suitable top. Hence, I changed my styling plan and decided to go with the vibe of a warrior princess.

Warrior of Light

This look is my interpretation of the character of Fallon Swift from the Chronicles of the one trilogy by Nora Roberts. While the series has been thrashed by many, I really liked book one, was okay with book two and am yet to read the third. The series is about a viral illness that wipes off half the world’s population at the same time awakening the magic both dark and light magic in others. How the world is built once again is told with a good dose of a slightly predictable good Vs evil story. When I read book 1 in 2018, I couldn’t imagine such a world or such an illness. It was as fictitious to me as the dark uncannys (magical yet evil creatures). Back in 2019, the 2021 me would have been alien to myself. Fast forward to 2021, the world is unrecognisable; the doom was here and we lived through it.

I wanted to create a look where I would not look like my usual self. The look had to be bold, strong, minimal, rough, edgy and raw. I used only concealer and kohl as makeup. However, I used a lot of editing effects  on my phone to create this warrior of light collage. It took me 10 minutes to decide on what I would be wearing, put it on with makeup, hairstyle and shooting it. I am wearing the Arrowhead necklace as a forehead ornament, other pendants as clips and my mirror crystal earrings. While I don’t like how I look in it, I do like the look and how the photos turned out for this is something I have never done before. The quote above is not from the book, it is something that I thought the warrior will say to someone in distress.

I began with stamp soldering as I could not buy copper foil due to the lockdown. Now that it has been delivered, I plan to try my hand at soft soldering again. I would be grateful for any tips.