Therukoothu necklaces

While working on the Marabu collection, I wanted to touch on several folk dance and theatre performances of Tamil Nadu. Karagattam, Poikaal Kudirai and mayilaatam (peacock dance) were at the top of my list. I used the karagattam illustration extensively in the labelling and promotional collaterals. however, I could not make jewellery out of it as did not turn out great at the resin stage. In the process of looking for more inspiration, I came across some images of Therukoothu – a street drama. I was really captivated by the photos of photographer Prathap A, taken at the Kattaikkuttu Gurukulam in Kanchipuram and Koothu documentary by Amar Ramesh which were the basis of my illustration on photoshop. I made two Therukoothu necklaces and here they are.

Therukoothu

Therukoothu – literally translates to Street performance in Tamil. It is street theatre performed in open spaces through the night in rural Tamil Nadu. Traditionally performed during temple festivals of honour of female deities Mariamman and Draupadiamman, it is also performed during festivals in cities. There is a lot of song, dance and drama infused with satirical humour. There is a narrator clown (Kattiyakaran who sings), apart from hero, heroine (played by a man) and a villian. It is also called Kattaikuthu – Kattai referring to the lavish wooden accessories worn by the performers. Performances typically draw from mythological stores with a big dose of current affairs infused in it. Watch the BTS reel of Koothu documentary by Amar Ramesh below.

Makeup & jewellery

As with several other folk dance and drama forms in India, Therukoothu too has an ornate aesthetic. The performers wear a ribbon trimmed skirt, a shirt, and an embellished jacket over pants embellished at the calf area. They wear elaborate mirror work headgear, shoulder ornaments and bell embellished anklets. Furthermore, they paint their faces in red, blue, green or black depending on the character that they are playing. Interestingly, the narrator-clown wears a medieval jester-like costume so distinct from the other performers.

Therukoothu necklaces

My plan was to first create pieces using the Therukoothu performer’s look. I had done something similar with Yakshagana in my Parampare collection and it worked well and was featured in a newspaper too. Then in the second stage I planned to create pieces inspired by the wooden jewels and costumes that they wear. I am still at stage one and made two therukoothu necklaces seen here.

The first therukoothu necklace has a square pendant on a silk thread wrapped cord with beads in red, blue and gold. It is indicative of the rich look and feel of the performers and their costumes. The second is a simpler piece – a choker. The pendant is small but glitters in light and has a old world feel to it. I made both the pieces really textural. I hope that the profusion of materials and textures – silk, wood, tiny beads, metal filigree and smooth resin will evoke the complex flavous of this art form. Though you might not be able to tell with the pictures on the screen, the yellow print is different in colour and details than the blue one.

Both the Therukoothu necklaces are available for sale as of now. Contact me to buy. If you want to see how they look on a person, head to my Instagram handle JewelsofSayuri to see my new editorial fashion Shoot. Titled “Thaai veetu Seethanum (Intangible trousseau)” it showcases several necklaces from Marabu collection including the Therukoothu necklaces. Do take a look and tell me what you think of it.

I hope you found it interesting
Cheers