June ABS – Art Nouveau roses

The inspiration for the June Art bead scene monthly challenge is an art nouveau-esque poster by John Louis Rhead which shows a young woman reading a magazine. As a teacher of costume history and history of design, I delved deep to analyse the artwork which is quite simple with a lot of recognisable elements from that period.

Art Nouveau roses

Art Nouveau is a design movement that was at its peak between 1890’s and the world war I. It is characterized by flat, decorative patterns; intertwined organic forms such as stems or flowers with writhing plant forms, called Foliate forms, a curvilinear depiction of leaves and flowers and vines, sinuous Whiplash lines (identified by their curves and counter curves) along with right-angled forms. The movement is more than a century old, its aesthetics, however, continue to be visible in everyday objects even today. Grill gates and balcony railings with foliate and curvilinear forms are perfect examples of this movement.

“Literary Poster for the Century Magazine”, June 1896
by John Louis Rhead
Original Lithographic Poster Printed in Colour with Letterpress

 I call this poster Nouveau-esque as it contains elements from both Aesthetic and Art Nouveau movements. While the rendering is flat, the details seem to be a bit less ornamental than the later art nouveau period. From the context (pose, background and hairstyle) of the woman I think that she could be a well read, fashionable aesthete and a nature lover (strolling barefoot in the garden). She has pale skin, red (henna colored hair) and is seen wearing an “Aesthetic dress” in teal, and roses in her hair. She is also surrounded by rose plants in the garden which surprisingly have no leaves.

As this image already has elements from two, although related, art movements, I decided to keep my design simple with direct inspiration from the image. Initially, I wanted to use wire to create curvilinear forms and suspend roses on them but somehow the piece looked very undesirable. So I decided to create a pendant for this challenge and a simple cord necklace to go with it. 

 

The base layer the pendant is made of resin and the cured piece has been ice enamelled and colored with enamel paints in multiple layers and sealed (picture on the left) and then painted with acrylic paint. Then the roses were drawn by removing the base paint to create a wood etching/engraving sort of look and finally colored in red. I was experimenting with my camera settings while taking pictures and didnt realise until now that the pendant looks differently in different pictures.

Art Nouveau roses

I have used colors like yellow, orange, red, green, teal and a streak of purple to compliment and balance all that yellow. This piece is truly mixed media, as it has a resin art pendant, silk thread cord, lampwork flower beads made by Artisan Jyothi (yes, I have been hoarding them all these years) and copper wire.

 Art nouveau is a style that comes to me instinctively when I paint but I found it very hard to translate the same aesthetics into jewelry. I think this is the fourth version that I tried and at one point I was like “I’ll just make a wire spiral and be done with it”. For now, I am happy with what I have achieved. The whiplash curves on the wire work and the illustration on the pendant and the foliate tendrils on which the flowers bloom are quintessentially art nouveau. Maybe, I‘ll work more on increasing the stability of the piece as the lampwork flowers are quite fragile. 

PS: Update on July 5th, 2016: I ma happy to have won the June monthly Challenge on the Art Bead Scene blog in the Monthly Challenge Art Bead category. I guess that its proof that I should become a Component Designer:) and solve my bead matching conundrum. 

I hope you found it interesting
 Cheers

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21 responses to “June ABS – Art Nouveau roses”

  1. Michelle L. avatar

    REally stunning! I love the way you translated the painting, and the little roses drawn or etched onto that gorgeous pendant really make it!

  2. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Mich, it took a lot of trial and error to get there

  3. BluMoon avatar

    This is such a well thought out and executed necklace I love how you translated the colouring with paint and the stylised roses add the perfect touch.
    Jackie

  4. Divya N avatar

    Thank you Jackie, I am glad that you like it

  5. Laura Lia avatar

    Gorgeous piece, LOVE the pendant!! Your must be a very positive person, your colors are so happy! 🙂

    Stay inspired!

    Laura xoxo

  6. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Laura, colors are my specialty 🙂

  7. Alison Herrington avatar

    I LOVE that you research the art work! I was fascinated by the rose bushes as well, I noticed no thorns first! But the detail of the base of the bush is so accurate with how the branches get cut back every year and regrow new branches! I also noticed she is barefoot… Have you ever walked barefoot thru a rose garden, I don't think it is wise! Lol!
    Anyway… Love your pendant! I have been following your designs and I am an admirerer of your work. I love the silk cord you used, it reminds me of the dress fabric in the artwork. Great Job!

  8. bairozan avatar

    I love your interpretation of the images in the painting and the colors are just beautiful! And how you found the soul of the picture to inspire you 🙂

  9. Divya N avatar

    Haaaa, Thanks Alison, Iam so glad that you like my work. Research is the occupational hazard of a design instructor 🙂 I never connected the cord to the painting until you pointed it out, I just picked it instinctively as it went well with the pendant. PS: I used to have many rose plants in my childhood home and yes I used to walk barefoot a lot of times 🙂

  10. Divya N avatar

    Thanks, on a lighter note, I think when you keep experimenting with various forms for one inspiration you somehow end up with one thats right 🙂

  11. Ann Schroeder avatar

    This piece is beautiful and such a great interpretation of the inspiration piece! I love both your pendant and the lampwork flowers.

  12. Kathy Lindemer avatar

    Great necklace! I love the cheery colors!

  13. Divya N avatar

    Thanks for your lovely compliments Ann, I have been hoarding the flowers for a long time now

  14. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Kathy

  15. ShantyChicBeads avatar

    Lovely. really captures the feel of the poster!

  16. Alice avatar

    A stunning necklace.I Love all the elements in this piece.The vibrant colors make the
    piece stand out.

  17. Julie Bray avatar

    This is a really beautiful piece, I can tell you put many hours into thinking this one through. Sometimes it is difficult to know when to stop lol. I especially love that little punch of blue. Makes me want to finally try that Ice Resin I have had for ages!

  18. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Julie. you should try out resin, its a fun medium

  19. Neena Shilvock avatar

    This is lovely Divya, can't think how I missed this post – congratulation on the ABS challenge. Do you find resin easy to work with in the Chennai humidity? I have difficulty in the UK – sometimes it doesn't set properly if the weather is a bit cold etc. have you tried UV resins – Lisa Pavelka has a brand which sets in sunlight and you have plenty of that 🙂 I have to use a UV lamp 🙁

  20. Divya N avatar

    More than the humidity, dust is a very big problem in Chennai and its the enemy of resin. You can warm part A in water before use when working during colder months. Alternatively you can warm it with a heat gun after mixing for a minute. As I live in an apartment I dont get much direct sunglight inside the house so I have not tried UV resins, plus they are not available in India

  21. […] this purpose, they also work well with a resin or a plastic base. I did try this technique in my Nouveau roses necklace‘s pendant which won the ABS monthly challenge for Art beads. The butterflies and leaves […]

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