Diamonds are versatile gems and can be worn in a plethora of ways. Flaunting this sentiment is Mrs. Nita Ambani, who wore a Diamond and Spinel Sarpech as a Bajuband (armlet) on 9th March during the Miss World Finals, held at the Jio World Convention Centre in Mumbai. She was clad in an elegant black Banarasi brocade saree designed by Swadesh and Manish Malhotra and woven by Mohammed Islam. To complement her look she wore kundan earrings set with diamonds, pearls and rubies/spinels, a statement yellow ring and a gold kada (cuff bracelet).
While she seemed to be saying “My diamonds, my way,” I found it empowering to see a woman wear, what is typically deemed to be a man’s jewel. The only female Indian ruler, I know of who used to wear a sarpech was Razia Sultan, a Sultanate queen who eventually died for being too “kingly.” I think that this was a befitting piece for the day as she received the Beauty with the purpose – humanitarian award. If that purpose is bringing back to India, all the looted gems, I am all for it. I am also really glad that the ornament is worn and not locked up in a museum.
Mughal Sarpech
A Sarpech, literally translating to “on the head or head screw” refers to a head ornament that adorned the turbans of Mughal emperors and nobility. Made of gold and gemstones such as diamonds, rubies, spinels and emeralds, a sarpech was a symbol of power and wealth. Motifs such as flowers, the sun and the moon and flume of birds would be featured in it. The gemstone beads that were a part of the head ornament could be engraved with a word from the Quran, bring a bit of protection to the wearer.
As Oppi Untracht (2008) states in his book “Traditional jewelry of India,” Mughal sumptuary laws restricted people from wearing a sarpech, as they were a sign of power. Only the royals of their blood relatives could wear one.
Kalgi
The Kalgi, originated from the Persian word “Kalgha,” meaning plume or crest. One of its original functions was to hold a feather of a black heron. Pearl drops are added to the tip making it droop. The same design was adapted when made using gemstones. In the later periods, long feathers of white egret were used instead. Apart from signalling nobility, prestige, and auspiciousness, a Kalgi also symbolises manliness. It positions the wearer as a “great hunter,” a warrior or a provider. Also known as Jigha, it is worn to this day by bridegrooms from certain states of India on their wedding day.
Translation to Aigrette
The word aigrette is a derivation of the word egret and signifies any head ornament that uses a spray of feathers or diamonds and at times both. Like its Mughal counterparts, the aigrette was a symbol of prestige, aristocracy, and elegance. During the colonial rule in India, the Sarpech and Kalgi entered the Western world as the aigrette. Cartier was instrumental in the raising the popularity of aigrette tiaras and brooches.
Mughal Sarpech that Nita Ambani wore
Coming back to the sarpech-armband that Mrs Ambani wore, I feel that referring to the piece as Shah Jahan’s sarpech is incorrect. The inscription on the spinels reads ’12 / Shah Jahan ibn Jahangir Shah / 1049’ indicating that it is a dynastic gemstone. However, this sarpech that was a part of the Al Thani collection could have be made in its present avatar for the 19th century Indian royals. As reported by Pramod Kumar of Topophili.India, the sarpech is 13.7 cm in height and 19.8 cm in width. The diamonds are set using the Pacchikam technique that mimics claw settings. The jewel boasts of 32 diamonds and 2 engraved spinels. It was displayed as a part of the exhibition “From the Great Mughals to the Maharaja: Jewels From The Al Thani Collection” in 2017.
What are Spinels?
Spinel is a mineral composed of magnesium aluminum oxide (MgAl2O4) with impurities such as iron and chromium. Chromium causes red spinels, whereas iron and titanium produce blue colour. Its hardness on the Mohs scale ranges from 7.5 to 8. Spinels are wrongly referred as “Balas Rubies” and often mistaken for rubies on sight. They can also be pink, purple, orange, and various shades of gray and brown. Considered as “Blood Protectors,” they symbolise love, protection, vitality, and strength. They can be holders of mystic powers. You can check out this free online course at SSEF to learn more about Spinels.
Why were gemstones engraved?
The spinels seen in Mughal jewellery originated from the Badakhshan mine near Tajikistan. Stones and beads that were rare, beautiful, and considered worthy of an imperial status were often engraved with the name of a king and his lineage. The Carew Spinel, currently in the V&A Museum, holds the inscriptions of Emperors Jahangir, Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb. Mughal rulers also had emeralds engraved in addition to spinels.
I hope you find it interesting.
Cheers
Leave a Reply