Kimhēkim’s fashion show in March, where he uses pearls in a runway performance, got me thinking about how jewellery has been a powerful tool in performance art. Traditionally, jewellery elevates dance and drama performances by aiding in identity creation. However, in a contemporary setting, it highlights cultural, social, and personal themes and adds depth and meaning to performances. Whether used to symbolise power, vulnerability, or connection, jewellery has been a powerful tool for performance artists exploring complex themes and emotions. A pearl signifies allure, beauty, romance, class and all things good. On the other hand, it represents tears, suffering and longing. It is a powerful signifier when used separately or along with other materials in jewellery. Therefore, pearls in performance art can create a strong impact, offering a fresh perspective on the role of jewellery in contemporary art.
Use of pearls in performance art
In performances, pearls may be used as a symbol of excess or frivolity, while in others, they may be used to subvert traditional gender roles or highlight issues of class and power.
In the FW23 Paris fashion week, Kimhēkim showcased, the Korean design Kimintē Kimhēkim’s “Hymne à la perle.” The highlight of the collection is the performance art where a model walks in wearing a skullcap sewn with pearls and a nude underwear. She is followed by a group of people in PPE and masks who cut the strands of pearls. As the pearls scatter, the model poses. According to Maison Kimhekim’s Instagram handle, “Pearls on strings represent restricted thoughts and movement. When the strings are cut, one’s burdens and limits are taken away and you are free to enjoy your true self. After three years of covid, we want to come back more true than ever, creative and free.”
Use of pearl strands in Art installation
In 2016, the British Artist Maisie Maud Broadhead showcased an exhibition titled “Pearls.” The series was a collection of photographs of women in Renaissance era clothing wearing pearl strands. Pearl beads were added to the photos bringing them to life in 3D. Maisie’s installations combine jewellery with visual art, challenging the boundaries of what is considered “fine art.” Through this series she shows the behind-the-scenes reality of the ideals of beauty and romance in our society. This installation also shows how traditional pearl chokers become contemporary art jewellery.
Pearls in Contemporary jewellery
Pearls have been used by several contemporary art jewellery artists. However, only a few of them use it in conjunction with the body to tell a story. It makes the wearing of the jewellery a performative art. Through the “juxtaposition of precious and experimental materials” in her pearl necklace series, Yevgeniya kaganovich “questions the cultural value of precious jewellery.” Emily Cobb through the “Brace yourself” collection details the trauma of getting dental work done (particularly braces) to beautify oneself. She uses pearls to represent the pearly whites. Quite clever, isn’t it?
Frances Wadsworth Jones – FWJ Studio
Can only people wear pearls? What if a room or even a shelf wanted to wear pearls? It would wear Frances Wadsworth Jones‘s Pearl Necklace for a Room which is a series of more than 100 gouache paintings of a knotted pearl strand. This series imagines how a domestic space might wear pearls. Whether it is the pearls earrings with a screw or the 3D printed ‘Second hand Time’ which is a speculative reconstruction of the Kokoschnik tiara at Kochi Biennale 23, the way that she works with pearls in unique, imaginative and thought provoking. Hat tip to Deborah Zinn of the Beads-L group for pointing me in this direction.
A Collaboration between FWJ and Pio Abad to create a series of 3D printed tiaras. I tried out the Kokoschnik tiara at Kochi Biennale in December 2022.
Current exhibitions about of pearls in contemporary Art
PEARL V2.0 is an exhibition of various contemporary art jewellery and art installation that is related to use or uses them directly. It showcases the works of Caroline Broadhead, Lin Cheung, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Maria Militsi and Frances Wadsworth Jones, who teach the BA Jewellery Design course at the Central Saint Martins in London. The Exhibition is from 13th April to 3rd June 2023 at the Platina Gallery in Sweden.
Restringing the Pearl presented by the Jewelry Library, NYC and curated by Petra Class and Biba Schutz is about the “Pearl stories” of the participating artists. It will be on display is from April 26th to June 6th 2023 at Box.NYC.
Regardless of the type of pearl, the use of pearls in performance art may elicit different reactions from different audiences. Some may see them as a symbol of elegance and beauty, while others may interpret them as a sign of excess or exploitation. The context in which pearls are used, as well as the artist’s intentions, can influence how they are perceived by viewers. Therefore, here are my questions to you. What reactions do the show, the jewellery, and installation shown above elicit from you? Do they change the way that you look at pearls? If you were to use pearls in a performative setting, how would you use them?
*Post updated on 15th April 2023.
I hope you find it interesting
Cheers
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