Solo travel in Kashmir

Recently, I visited Kashmir and the one question that most locals whom I met asked me was “How did your family react when you told them that you wanted to undertake a Solo travel in Kashmir?” One woman I met in Pahalgam told me that she envied my courage to travel alone to Kashmir (she was travelling with her family). A Taxi driver appreciated me for not believing in the stories propagated by the media. A couple of local men (shopkeepers) thanked me for trusting that the Kashmiri (men) will look after tourists who come. But why, you may ask? While Kashmir is known for its lakes and gardens, it is also known for its militancy. I am not going to get into those details here but rather focus on a guide to solo travel in Kashmir.

Budgeting Solo travel in Kashmir

Kashmir is one of the more expensive tourist destinations in India. For a trip to be really economical you must travel in a group of three people as rooms in most hotels accommodate three people and it evens out the taxi fares. I have mentioned approximate expenditure wherever possible in INR.  The basic taxi fare for any day trip (Sonmarg, Phalgam, Gulmarg. Dhoodhpatri) starts at Rs.2700-Rs.3000 depending on the type of car. The cheapest way to travel within Srinagar is to take a shared Sumo car (similar to Share auto in Chennai).

Places to see in Srinagar

• Gardens – There are four well-known Mughal gardens in Srinagar. They are Chashme Shahi, Pari Mahal, Nishat and Shalimar. I visited the latter two. Nishat is in steps and known for its flowers while Shalimar is known for its lawns and fountains. Pari Mahal – the palace of fairies is located on a hill and requires fitness and clear weather to see.
• Lakes – Srinagar boasts of two magnificent lakes – Dal and Nigeen. Find a detailed post on my experiences at the Dal Lake here.
• Places of religious significance – Apart from the Islamic places of worship (find detailed information below), there are also Hindi temples (E.g Sankaracharya hill) and a Zoroastrian temple as well.

Jamia Masjid. You can see the Akbar kila in the distance

• Zero Bridge – Zorr Bridge made of Deodar and walnut wood. It is a pedestrian-only bridge across the river Jhelum.
• SPS (Shri Prathap Singh) Museum – a spacious museum with a great archaeological section. The displays of ancient floral motifs used on terracotta slabs were beautiful. The section on Hindu deities of the region, the bronze gallery and the evolution of currency was illuminating. Did you know that the word “Rupee” for Indian currency was first used by the Mughals? If you wish to photograph the collections, you need to pay per gallery.

Day trips/overnight stay

You can do day trips to Gulmarg, Sonmarg, Dhoodhpatri and Pahalgam or trips with overnight stays. I visited only Pahalgam and Gulmarg, all the while visualising Nora Robert’s novels as I passed through the moors and meadows.

• Sonmarg – Known for its meadows, Thajiwas glacier and snow-clad mountain tops where you can go skiing in winter.
• Dhoodhpatri – known for Shailaganga, a milky white river that flows through the meadows.

Pahalgam

If you want to sit on the shores of a river, looking far ahead dreaming a story or conjuring magic, then Pahalgam is the place to be. There are several picturesque spots along the river Lambodari – Lidder where you can have picnics, read a book or just take pictures. In good weather, you can sit and paint here. I missed doing it due to the incessant rains. You can also visit Aru valley, Betab valley, Mamul temple and Chandanwadi by car. Furthermore, you can ride a horse up and down the hills to visit Baisaron aka Mini Switzerland. Visit Avantipur, Mattan and apple orchards or saffron fields (depending on the season). I also visited the Mamaleshwar and Gauri Shankar temple at Pahalgam.

Mattan once known as Martand is the holy place of Hindus, Muslims and Sikhs. It is one of the few remaining and functioning Sun temples in India. There is a pond here where the fish species Schizothorax plagiostomus thrives. They are lots of hotels to stay in (they are expensive) and a big market to shop at. A trip to Pahalgam covering the Avantipura ruins, Mattan, and Betab valley, with a night stay and drives in Pahalgam will cost you Rs.8000 – Rs.10000. Remember that taxis from outside Pahalgam are allowed into certain places while to go to other places you need to take local cabs. Regardless of which cab you take, you will end up spending the same amount of money.

Gulmarg

People visit Gulmarg in the winter to ski. During summer, you can take a Gondola ride in two phases to see the Apharwat peak. There is a story of how Gulmarg (path of flowers) was once called Gauri marg (path trodden by Gauri- the wife of Lord Shiva). Therefore, Queen Mohini Bai Sisodhi, the wife of Maharaja Hari Singh, the Dogra King of Jammu & Kashmir built a Shiva temple – the Mohinishwar Shivalaya here.

The trip to Gulmarg is tiresome. You must drive for 3 hours from Srinagar, walk a steep mountain slope, collect your tickets (that you reserved online) at a counter, and wait in line to see if they will let you board the gondola even to the first phase. I was turned away at the gate as the weather was bad. Due to heavy rain and snowfall it was a total bust for me. I thought that I could play in the snow here as my Mt. Titlis trip was also spoiled by sleet and fog. I guess snow and I do not go together. Both tourists and locals whom I spoke to (later) felt that Gulmarg is over-hyped and that Sonmarg is better in summers. I did see the snow-clad peaks from my flight during my return for 5 minutes (the exact amount of time I had requested while praying to see them while at Gulmarg). It reminded me of my Everest experience flight in Nepal.

Visiting Mosques and Islamic places of worship

There are several beautiful Islamic places of worship in Kashmir. While I have seen several mosques from the outside, I have never had the opportunity to pray inside a mosque before as a female, non-muslim. Therefore, visiting the Jamia Masjid, Khankha-e-Moula shrine and the Hazaratbal Mosque in Srinagar was the highlight of my trip. Wear clothes that fully cover your body and cover your head as well to be respectful.

Shah-e-Hamadan Masjid is the first Khanqah – mosque associated with a particular saint in the Kashmir valley. It was first built in 1395 AD in the memory of Mir Sayyid Ali Hamadani who brought Islam to Kashmir. The present structure is wooden and decorated with ornate chandeliers and paper machine embellishments. There are several stories pertaining to that of a Kali temple and how Hindus converted to Islam. While Jamia Masjid is known for its tall wooden pillars, Hazaratbal is know for its white dome and the traditional arch structure in terms of architecture.

Nature activities

While skiing and other snow-based activities are the main attraction of Kashmir in winter, there are few things that you can do during summer and even when it rains. In Phalagam, Sonmarg and Gulmarg you can trek or go horse riding on the hills. While Gulmarg slopes have pakka roads, in Pahalgam the horse just trots up the hill. Since it was raining in Pahalgam continuously except for the time I rode the horse, the slopes were slippery and slushy. The caretaker of the horse slipped atleast 3 times Pay Rs.1400 for upto two hours 10-12 kms of horse riding from Pahalgam to Baisaron.

What to Pack

The weather here is really unpredictable. I was there during what was supposedly summer but it rained throughout. The average temperature ranged from 5 degrees (in Gulmarg) to a more tolerable 12 degrees in Srinagar. Therefore, I was walking around in sweaters/jackets, woollen pherans (tunics) and raincoats. Regardless of the time of the year, carry warm clothing, a raincoat and an umbrella. You will need both open quick-drying footwear and closed shoes. However, if it does not rain, it is quite hot in summer and you need thin cotton clothes.

People and Local culture

Yes, the famed Kashmiri hospitality – Kashmiri Mehmaan nawazi is true. Don’t be surprised if people you meet for the first time offer you food, invite you home, drop you at your destination or lend you clothes. As is the case with every other place in the world, here too you will find different kinds of people. Don’t trust anyone blindly. At the same time, savour the affection you are shown for it is a rare commodity in this world.

Stay during Solo travel in Kashmir

I stayed at the Blooming Dale hotel in Srinagar and it was like staying with family. Firdouz sir (the hotel owner) is like the uncle who tells you to wait until he comes home so that he can take you siteseeing. He would text/call you if it’s late in the evening and you are yet to come back. Mir Bhai, the caretaker is that relative who will tell you you are not eating enough and then ask why you didn’t like his cooking. The next day, he will change his cooking style for you. Both of them lent me shoes – quite literally off their feet since I didn’t take along any. If you expect posh rooms or a wide range of food options then you will be disappointed. But if you prefer personal attention and friendship, then this is a good place. Tariff – around Rs.3200 incl breakfast per night plus taxes.

Pahalgam has a lot of homestays and lodges as alternatives to hotels if you are on a tight budget. But keep your expectations really low to avoid disappointments.

What to eat/drink – Vegetarian edition

Kashmir maybe a meat lovers paradise, but it has enough vegetarian options. However, if you are looking for the soft boiled rice much like what you would find in other parts of the country, you will be disappointed. Rice here is undercooked to retain its crispiness. You can get steaming hot vegetable Maggie and crispy Onion pakoda in most tourist spots. Pizza and pasta joints are aplenty too. If you are garden hopping, then try the Kashmiri Masala dosa outside Shalimar gardens. Mrs. Veg, near the Dalhgate bridge, which serves North Indian food  has a lip smacking honey-chili lotus stem starter. When in Kashmir, do not miss the Kahwa (tea with saffron and chopped nuts) and crisp roti/bread. One cup and you can bid your body ache adieu. The Liberty cafe with antique items strewn  offers a great hangout spot. When in Pahalgam, try Nathu Rasoi for south Indian food.

Shop

There is a lot to shop for in Kashmir. You can get winter wear such as jackets, caps, and gloves everywhere. Gulmarg market has a lot of pocket-friendly shops for western winter wear. You can buy the famed Pashmina shawls, Yak shawls and Kani work shawls in Srinagar. Pherans (tunics) with crewel or tilla embroidery are must buys. Kashmir is famous for its carpets and Paper machie craft which warrants a separate post. It is also known for its Saffron, dried fruits and nuts and rose water products.

That is the summary of my solo travel in Kashmir. I still have lots more images and lots more memories to share. So stay tuned for more travelogues.

I hope you find it interesting
Cheers