Sabyasachi X HM jewellery

After a lot of internal debate, I am writing this post. Sabyasachi X HM jewellery has been a total let down for me personally and that is me trying to put it as nicely and as politely as I can. Before I go into why and how I feel this way, let me give a little bit of context.

PS: All ideas expressed in this post are my own and are not meant to hurt the sentiments of anyone. 

Sabyasachi Mukerjee

Sabyasachi or Sabyasachi Mukerjee is one of the foremost fashion designers in India. He is a middle class boy who graduated from NIFT and went on to reframe how the world and India looks at Indian fashion. Sabyasachi is one designer who could expertly navigate the world of glitz on the ramp as well in movies but also portray the poetry of Indian crafts. I would define his style as “refined Indian Kitsch.” He was one of the reasons I wanted to become a fashion designer. I idolized him and even wrote my admissions essay on him, 18 years ago.

Over the last two decades, he like any designer, has evolved. He went from stating that a “web presence was not for him” and that he preferred a setting where his clients could “touch and feel” the materials that he works with to having one of the most successful social media accounts with 4.7M followers as on date. He has worked with real life brides on a TV reality show and designed for several Indian celebrities for their wedding, choosing to create his version of an “Ideal Indian bride.” On the other hand, he has broken beauty myths by working with models of various sizes, skin tones and those who are gender fluid. Whether he truly believes that Fashion is for all or these are marketing gimmicks, I do not know. However, I value his work as many of his pieces speak to me.

That is until his latest collaboration with H&M.

Sabyasachi X HM

As a young graduate I remember being excited by Fish Fry, a collaboration between Reebok and Indian Designer Manish Arora. However, when I read that Sabyasachi and H&M are going to partner, I was unsure about what to expect. Like so many Indian girls, I too had dreamed being a Sabyasachi bride eons ago. But marriage aside the idea of owning something that was designed by him appealed to me. However much I hate H&M, I assured myself that would be something for me to like. Something for me to buy. Maybe prints of his textile collages? His colourful English florals on cotton instead of silk? Maybe prints of his gem set heavy necklaces as neckline motifs on tunics?

The final collection that was launched last week and it sold out in minutes. It has been highly debated upon by netizens, a majority of whom were disappointed by it. While it was a little expensive and not a lot like Sabyasachi, the apparel and the scarves were decent, wearable and relatable. However, I am not going to talk about the apparel collection. I am going to talk about the fiasco that is the jewellery collection.

Sabyasachi X HM jewellery

Apart from garments, the collection had sunglass, clutches, scarves, belts and jewellery. While a lot of people liked the accessories, I did not see anything new, something that could not be purchased from another brand. But I particularly hated the jewellery and I usually love his jewellery. I gaze at the pictures lovingly before I give it a double tap. Yes, his jewellery is typically a remake or revival of traditional Indian jewellery, in the likes of those you would find in the books by Oppi Untracht and Usha R BalaKrishnan. It is not new; but it is rich, complex and well made. He brought the Satalahari back in fashion for heaven sake and had a successful collaboration with Bergdorf Goodman! Scroll through the jewellery page to see what I am referring to.

I had expected Sabyasachi X HM jewellery to be mass produced designer prêt – but designer prêt nonetheless. I wanted Tiger heads and palm tree earrings in brass and ratnavali set with synthetic gemstones. Even with the knowledge that H&M prefers to cater to a young western audience, I could not tolerate the watered down anthropologie-isc pieces. They looked like jewellery that I would find walking down Sarojini market or Lajpat Nagar in Delhi or at my local store in Chennai that sells Chinese surplus.

Did Sabyasachi X HM jewellery deserve to be shot under the “Big love campaign” with focus on both fashion and love being for all with no restrictions whatsoever? For me, it is a big no. I wish that they had shot something truer using such a beautiful concept.

Despite that heartfelt message to clients, I feel as though fashion and love have let me down, I am broken hearted!

Where has all the art gone?

Cheers