Introduction to Sheet metal jewellery

These days, I am all about returning to the basics. In order to work in an area we need to understand the foundation terms and techniques of the area. This is particularly true for self taught designers who have not had the opportunity to study design at a fundamental level. Continuing with my informative series on jewellery basic from the last few years, here is another “basics” post. This time, it is an Introduction to Sheet metal jewellery aimed at beginners only. I request the metal jewellery veterans who are reading this post to add to it in the comments section. Click here for an older post in this series on introduction to precious metal wire.

Introduction to Sheet metal jewellery

What is Sheet metal

Sheet metal is metal formed by an industrial process into thin, flat pieces. The thin ones are called foil or leaf and the thicker ones are called plate. The thickness of sheet is commonly specified its gauge. The larger the gauge number, the thinner the metal. Commonly used steel sheet metal ranges from 30 gauge to about 7 gauge. Sheet metal is used in engineering, architecture, interiors, vehicles, electronics and electrical, utensils and in the fashion industry.

Metals can be divided into base metals and precious metals. Commonly used metals are Aluminum, Stainless steel, German Silver, Copper, Brass, pewter, steel, Silver and ofcourse Gold for jewellery. The metal is selected based on flexibility, techniques possible, cost effectiveness, look.

Techniques that can be used with Sheet metal to create jewellery

Sheet metal can be cut or sawn into shapes and riveted or soldered to form jewellery. Other cold connections like wiring, screws, and hinges can be used as well. In addition to these basic techniques, the following can be used to create three dimensional pieces.

Forming

The metal being processed is plastically deformed to shape it into a desired geometry using pressure at the right temperature. It can be done in 3 ways – cold, warm and hot working, Metal forming processes can be classified under two major groups. Bulk deformation processes and sheet metal working processes. Usage of dyes, extrusion and drawing (including wire drawing) comes under Bulk Deformation. Rolling, shearing, and bending come under sheet metal working processes.

Hand forming processes in jewellery

In Jewellery, three dimensionality can be achieved in an object through repeatedly striking the surface. Using the right tools is crucial to forming. You can use hammers like chasing hammer and wedge or riveting hammer to achieve various results. Other than fold forming which I will discuss later in this post, Doming, daping and Swaging are a few methods by which you can make 3D components. You can also crimp, ruffle, and texture as your form. Most metals need to be cleaned and annealed (and cleaned once again) before forming.

Doming & Dapping

Dapping is creating hemispherical cup like components using a dapping block and punches. The blocks can be made of steel, wood or brass. You can also get gentle dapping using only your chasing hammer, without the punches. Don’t have a doming block? No issues, learn to dome without one – using a sppon here.

Swaging

Swaging is making tubes and other cylindrical forms, using a bending block and cylindrical punches. It can be used to curve metal forms in one plane. If you are a tool junkie, then check out this affordable doming and bending block set on Amazon.

Form folding

Fold-forming is a technique whereby metal is folded, repeatedly forged, chased, corrugated, or crimped and annealed. It is then unfolded to produce a wide range of dramatic three-dimensional forms. Invented in the late 1980’s by Charles Lewton-Brain, this technique provides designers with an creative methods of creating organic forms. Form folding can be combined with doming and dapping to create fantastic forms. You can also crimp instead of form folding. Follow this tutorial to create a statement metal leaf necklace.

Weaving

Weaving is the interlacing of two sets of elements, one vertical and one horizontal – warp and weft. The process of weaving creates a surface that can be shaped into ribbons and ruffles, spirals and loops, which become earrings, brooches, necklaces and pendants. Metal fabric can be finished by backing, casing using sandwich, frame, or bezel technique. I Recommended reading Textile Techniques in Metal: For Jewelers, Textile Artists & Sculptors By Arline M. Fisch for great inspiration.

Chasing and Repoussé

Repoussé is a metalworking technique in which a malleable metal is ornamented or shaped by hammering from the reverse side to create a design in low relief. Chasing is the opposite technique to repoussé, and the two are used in conjunction to create a finished piece. It is also known as embossing. Repousse is commonly used in India (as Nagaas work) to create jewellery, religious embellishments, and ornamental utensils or home décor products. Temple jewellery, Kavasam in temples, Covering for chariots, silver cutlery or pooja items (like kalash), decorative objects like betel nut box or jewellery box are made using this technique. It can be see in Victorian jewellery too as a collection know as “Swami jewellery”, featuring a pantheon of Hindu deities and other figures was used to make jewellery and decorative items for the European market by P.Orr and Sons, Madras in the 1880s.

Colouring Sheet metal jewellery

While colouring does not plastically alter the Sheet metal jewellery, it can add value to it. Sheet metal jewellery can be colored using
Natural or a stimulated oxidation process using natural materials like ammonia, vinegar, salt, and fire. It can also be coloured using chemicals like LOS, potassium permanganate, acid dips etc). Metal can be either hot or cold enamelled. It can be painted using patina Inks, Gilder paste, alcohol inks, acrylic paints, color pencils, coloured resin, and even nail polish. Regardless of the colouring technique you use, do not forget to clean your metal first using these tips.

If you are beginner looking to learn metal smithing visually, then The Complete Photo Guide to Making Metal Jewelry is a good book.

I hope you found this basis post interesting. I have kept it as simple as possible for beginners. I request experts to add more to the post by way of comments.

PS: All items shown in this post are my creations. But only the Phoenix necklace – last image on the page is for sale.

I hope you found it interesting

Cheers