A craft sojourn in Chiang Mai

Just before I left for Thailand, my students (rather kids) surrounded me saying that “M’am its not fair that you are happily going abroad while we have to go study a craft cluster”. Little did they know that I was to do exactly the same thing a week later, that too very happily. As the first stop on my Thailand journey I chose Chiang Mai. Many ask me why I picked CM of all places? 
Most Indians associate Thailand with Phuket or Pattaya and don’t even know that Chiang mai exists.  I first found Chiang mai being mentioned on Trip Advisor forums where I am a regular contributor as the ‘No. 1 place to visit in 2015′; but I wasn’t interested then. I wanted to go to Hong Kong or Seam Reap or Bali and finally by chance ended with Bangkok and Pattaya. Two weeks before I left, I fell sick and my legs swelled double their  size making snorkeling in Pattaya seem like a bad option. So I ended up picking Chiang Mai for a craft cluster tour and Tiger kingdom along with Bangkok. 

My Chiang Mai journey started with a lot of Drama. I had booked a tour for the afternoon I landed and kept waiting for them at my hotel for nearly 40 minutes without even having lunch. They never turned up and did not pick my calls. Though being stuck in an unknown place was scary I called up another driver, whom I had booked for the next day and asked if he could come. Joy, was indeed my saviour. He not only came in the promised 30 mins times, he took me to 4-5 the craft clusters in the time possible and also acted as my guide all for half the price quoted by the first agency!!

A craft Sojourn in Chiang Mai – A Tour of Sankampaeng Craft Village

 Sankampaeng craft village is to the east of the city ( 8-9 KM) where on both sides of the road there are numerous little craft factories whose work end up at the night bazaar and Sunday markets or gets exported. To do justice to the crafts, this would be a long post so stay with me please.

Hand Painting and Lacquer work on Celadon

1) Baan Celadon – Glazed Pottery

My first stop was  Baan Celadon – A company that specializes in carved or painted and crackled glazed green and blue pottery. Unfortunately as I went on a sunday I could not see the process but the owner was kind enough to explain the wood firing process to me as I sipped on some homemade chilled tea and munched on coconut jelly cubes made by her grand daughter. Thankfully I had read a post on wood firing on the AJE blog and could appreciate the process as she explained it.

2) Hand made Paper & Umbrella

3) Gems Gallery

My Third Stop was the Gems gallery – the one touted as the worlds largest gem collection. I can describe it in two words as the “Aladdin’s Cave”.  I was initially apprehensive about going here due to the famous Bangkok Gem Scams and when I confided in Joy he gave me some wonderful advice. He said “look interested till the very end and then smile politely, say that you’ll be back some other time and come out; No need to buy anything”. I am glad that I went inside. There is a workroom in the gallery where you can see artists engraving jade, cutting and polishing it. You can also see them doing stone setting, buffing and soldering.  I got to see a lot of the tools that I have read about in Beading daily newsletters and it was quite a bit of learning for me.

The gallery itself is big with sparkling gemstone jewelry made of topaz, rubies, emeralds and sapphires lining table after table in a majestic fashion. I supposedly have good observation powers and can remember a design If I see it once, but I went blank after 3 tables. I couldnt remember millions of beautiful things!! (photography is prohibitted inside and rightly so!). How I wished that I could be a princess (or a queen) and own some of it!

4) Silverware & Repousse

This workshop was almost empty when I went, with just the manager sharing tips on how to identify ‘Real silver’. The gallery by contrast was extensive and filled with beautiful silver chains, pendants, utility articles and gift items of all sizes. Filigree and Nagas work (Repousse) was very common. But after the gems gallery this was a little disappointing for me and when I came out I heard a loud “Dhang dang dungh” sound and to my surprise and joy found a woman doing repousse.  (Not to sound sexist but a female repousse artisan was an uncommon find for me as in India, only men [traditionally] do it)

She could not understand English nor I could Thai but it was as though someone (God) wanted me to see the step wise process. Each step was laid out before my eyes as the artisans had just left them there after a days work. From drawing on the sheet, to tools to filling with the pitch, everything was there. I had so many questions but I was happy that atleast I could see the process with my own eyes

5) Lacquerware

This was my final stop on the highway but to my luck, I not only got a “how to tour”  on how to make lacquerware but was also able to see the outcome at one place. It was so amazing and very humbling to learn about the lacquer process as it not just requires a lot of time and effort but also a lot of patience. The assistant told me that they take 5-7 weeks to create a product with more than 5-7 coats of resin depending on the size of the object and the kind of detailing that is required. I was amazed by the skill of artisans applying the gold foil in such intricate shapes. I guess the chart says everything there is to say about different variations possible in the process. Shown below is their new design intervention – Egg shell work with painting

Joy told me that the Government had given land and subsidies to develop craft villages like these as artists being together could be a better tourist draw. I wish that our Indian government too, could go beyond having Haats (or market places) do something like this where craftsmen could not just sell their work but also work and educate others.
I had so much fun during this craft trip and wish that I had spent an entire day there (a three hour tour isn’t enough as most shops close at 5 PM). I highly recommend that you visit Chiang Mai when in Thailand and that you book the services of Joy (Pronchadin Potiya) and his family travels for your travelling needs at CM. Joy’s cousin Vipa is super cool, much like an elder sister and can be a great driver/guide/companion for a singe female traveller.

I hope you found it interesting
Cheers

Save