Ideals of beauty

What is beauty? Who is beautiful?

These are questions I ask students after they complete my semester and a half long course on Costume Appreciation, where we discuss the aesthetics, beautification processes, and attire worn by people around the globe. For me, it is the single most thought provoking discussion that a fashion school can and must have and after a lot of thought, I am sharing my views on different Ideals of beauty here.

Ideals of beauty

History teaches us that there is no one yardstick for measuring beauty and how Various ideals of beauty have evolved over time.  In some cultures, spotless white or black skin is the ideal of beauty while in some other tattooed or painted skin is considered beautiful. Some prefer no accessories while other elongate necks and earlobes with jewelry. Some think anklets indicate slavery while other think they celebrate free-spirited nature. With the passing of time, different cultures have borrowed from each other, amalgamating their ideals with those that contradict them, leading to rich cultural practices.

The impact of Colonisation

When the (Victorian) British came to India, they were shocked to see even women from respectable families without blouses or wearing skirts that reached the knee. It went against their tenets of modesty, respect, and cultural values. However, here, in the hot, humid subcontinent skin show was not just accepted but also appreciated for what it is worth. Slowly, along with their mindset, their clothing process also changed and the west started accepting show of skin (on certain parts of the body) as a sign of beauty. At the same time, Indians, who coveted the high neck, ruffled collared blouses and tweed jackets of the English felt that covering the body made them more beautiful and hence covering the body became the Indian culture while baring skin became western culture.
Image from Basics: Fashion design – Jewellery design by Elizabeth Glaton; book review coming up soon

In the past, European women, applied lead powder on their faces as paleness was considered the epitome of beauty and in the process suffered painful cancers. Hindu, Tamil Brahmin women used to apply turmeric on their face and hands as yellow was considered as the auspicious (mangalagaram) mark of a married woman (Sumangali). Marie Antoinette’s powdered hair is legendary along with the staggeringly high fruit and feather coiffures of the18th century noblewomen which would be inhabited by mice and vermin. Until the mid 90’s only curvy women were considered sexy in Indian movies with 2000’s Ideals of beauty giving way to anorexic models.

Who is to say what is right? In this age of extensive and often extreme grooming does the concept of Saamudrika Lakshanam hold good?

Identity and gender

One of the main functions of fashion is gender identification and differentiation but how can we define how a man or woman should look without considering the context of the civilization, the geographic, demographics and the evolution of the culture?


 Lord Krishna, the best strategist and one of the most handsome Gods is said to have had radiant blue-black skin, lotus pink lips and he is described in epics as wearing bright yellow silks with pearl and diamond jewelry and sometimes a nose ring. A very famous Cretan sculpture shows a powerful goddess holding up snakes with her breasts spilling over her jacket. In the high Gothic period wearing a hose that came over the mid thigh with velvet breeches was considered as manly perfection. A very famous Cretan sculpture shows a powerful goddess holding up snakes with her breasts spilling over her jacket. On a more relatable level, I remember my grand uncles having long hair (similar to a back oseldet) and wearing chunky diamond studs in both ears as a part of their tradition. I have seen male traders wearing nail polish and Mehendi even today and I know of women who’ll only wear all black or blue outfits.

Ideals of beauty
Photo: Kritarth Ghosh, Model: Adhithi Priya, Headgear: Divya N, Concept: Birth of Colors

Ideals of beauty

Today, our societies, our nations and hence our practices are in a constant flux. Living in this melting pot of cultures, we are racing towards frontiers and embracing technology as our second skin but we are still not open to breaking stereotypes and challenging falsely conceived notions. At a time when leggings are being considered as destructors of culture, are we willing to call a man wearing a pantyhose and gathered velvet shorts as manly? Are we open minded enough to see him wearing yellow silks, a nose ring, flowers and pearls? Should a woman be completely covered up to be a “good, respectable woman”? Can a plus sized or even large women wear short, fitting clothes without being ridiculed?  Why is a girl considered feminine only when she wear pinks, pearls or flowers? Why is there is constant debate whether the fair or dark skin is more beautiful

Be You

 I understand that this is sensitive (and controversial) topic with exhaustive arguments from either side of the bench. But the fact that there is a discussion itself is a positive development for me. I feel that Fashion brands, designers and enthusiasts have a responsibility to make this society more open minded and aware and accepting of the fact that we are all created equal. No one being should ever be made to feel that they are less than another for looking a particular way. I laud Jabong‘s sequel to their “Be You‘ Campaign that discusses alternative ideals of beauty and questions stereotypes as a positive step in this direction.
 


Without going into the commercial or strategic aspect of branding, I think this one of the best fashion advertisements of recent times in terms of content – styling and choreography. Controversial as it might be, it is interesting to see the Indian advertising industry transform into this mature, complex visual medium. It makes you sit up, take notice and propels you to discuss real yet scarcely discussed issues like “identity” and Ideals of beauty in a contemporary Indian Context.

Recently, I found this post on Facebook that said “One’s choices may not resonate with you! But that does not make them wrong!”. I don’t think I can sum up this post any better. One does not have to conform to a particular way of looking to be considered beautiful. With a little awareness, acceptance, and kindness everyone can live beautiful lives!

PS: This is not a sponsored post.

I hope you found it interesting
Cheers

  1. Neena Shilvock avatar

    In my opinion, anything goes, as long as it pleases the wearer. Except of course that dangerous obsession to have a skin colour different to the natural one. Such a stupid obsession that can have such terrible consequences

  2. Divya N avatar

    Very true, but tanning sprays and fairness creams have too big a market share that companies will always come up with ways promote it, no matter what

  3. Cinnamon Jewellery avatar

    Great post Divya. On a more personal level we can all see the changing ideas of fashion and beauty just by looking through old family photo albums! It's amazing how quickly hair, jewellery and clothing styles date.

  4. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Tracy, more than fashion which is Cyclical and changes every season, our attitude and our perception of beauty and fashion changes albeit at a slower rate. Life would be peaceful, if we can all be a bit more open minded

  5. Dr Sonia S V avatar

    Oooh what a jam packed thought provoking article Divya . I didnt realise that we influenced the Western style of fashion and vice versa and yes that last adorable though not to my personal liking does make one sit up and take notice of it!!
    Cheers
    Dr Sonia

  6. Little Treasures avatar

    Loved this post Divya! It is quite engaging and I would have loved to be present at one such discussion you have with your students on the topic what is beauty and what is considered beautiful considering that ancient and modern societies had and still have different (sometimes clashing) standards of the perception of beautiful – fashion having an immense influence on it as a key to set those standards of beauty in different societies through ages.

  7. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Maya. I feel that people, these days, inspite of tall the tremendous exposure to the world have predefined notions of beauty and aesthetics which are often incorrect and limiting. I just want to expose people to alternatives – a chance to see things from another perspective which would in time make us more tolerant.

  8. Divya N avatar

    Yes Sonia, most of what is considered Indian today, is not of Indian origin. The concept of covering the body is just one of them.

  9. Kendall Patton avatar

    What an informative post on beauty, expectations, and standards! I, for one, know that my sense of beauty and understanding of the world is based on my likes/dislikes, experiences, and desires but also my exposure to things and the context in which I'm seeing something. I also know that our society is such a huge influencer when it comes to defining beauty and the standards and expectations that go along with those definitions. 🙂

  10. bairozan avatar

    It's an interesting subject and the discussion can be practically endless. Modern civilization rejects most ancient ideals of beauty and applauds anorexic (as you justly remarked) innocent and/or sexy looks. This sells the product. Maybe fashion is not the right place to look for ideals of beauty but portrait art? Anyways, there always will be different opinions.

  11. Divya N avatar

    In olden days Portrait art was the only way to showcase fashion (of the royalty in this case) and slowly permeated the society in terms of calendar art and magazine prints which has been taken over by social media today. Fashion keeps changing cyclically not matter what the media is

  12. Divya N avatar

    Wow Kendall, that is a great understanding of aesthetics;it is both inborn and cultivated through nurture and self analysis. But when you live in a place and time, that isnt evolved as you are, or when you have an ideal of beauty that is completely opposite from the one your society forces upon you, it becomes an issue.

  13. S Marie avatar

    The concept of beauty is such a fluid thing that I don't think there can truly be an "ideal". I agree that the best policy is to wear what feels right for you and your tastes. Thanks for sharing this with us at Merry Monday!

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