Making Floral Hair braids

floral hair accessories

Here is the continuation to my last post detailing my experiences at a floral hair accessories workshop. After successfully trying out Venis, I graduated to making floral nets and Floral Hair braids. Before I proceed to what I made, I want to offer a little background (filled with culture nuggets) on wearing flowers on the hair.

Floral Nets & BraidsA background

There is evidence of elaborate floral Nets and Braids being worn by women in India even in the Satavahana period (around 200 BC). In the beginning it was mostly worn by tribals, dancers and  was slowly adapted by upper class women. It was considered as a part of Shola- Shringar (16 things that makes a woman beautiful and desirable).  It was worn by pre-puberty girls in India even on an everyday basis (though more elaborate braids were reserved for festivals, celebrations and weddings) until the last 30 years. I remember my grandmother telling me how they would make hair embellishments using Thalampoo (Screw pine flower). It gradually diminished due to lack of time and exposure of western fashion of 70’s and 80’s. You cant wear flowers with tights, short skirts or jeans right?

Floral Hair braids tamil wedding

The Practice of wearing flowers on the hair

In the North, wearing flowers became an outdated practice by the late 70’s. Gajras (Strand of flowers – mostly jasmine) were reserved for Deities or were worn during weddings or festivals. My mom recollects memories from her stay in Delhi in 1970’s, when she was told be her sister not to wear mixed or colored flowers in her hair while going out, as she might not be considered as a woman with high moral standards.

It’s a south(ern) story

But the south was and is a different story altogether – neatly combed hair with flowers on was considered as must, particularly in the evenings and people would not stop complaining until you put flowers on your head. It seems my grandfather (Father’s father) used to say that ‘only Widows and motherless children went by without wearing flowers, bindhi and jewellery’ and buy flowers by the heap to be strung by my grandmother for their daughters everyday.
Women, in the south, wore flower strands on their heads up until the last 10 years on an everyday basis. Now its almost gone, save the dramatic mentions of ” Poovum pottum” (flowers and bindhi) as the hallmark of a cultured woman (married) in Tamil TV serials. 

A few years back, I remember reading about Aung San Suu Kyi’s India visit when she noted how “Indian women preferred not to wear flowers on their hair anymore”.

I remember my aunts (my father’s sisters) telling me, how they would match their flowers with their sarees and half sarees while going to school and college. They would wear kanakambaram (Crossandra infundibuliformis) with yellow, orange or red clothes,  kadambam (mix of different flowers) with dark colors, December violet (Bluebell barleria) with pink outfits, December yellow and white (Barlerias) with pastel shades and varieties of jasmine like malli, mullai or Jaadi with with pretty much anything. Roses were a special treat and would often be used to entice children/teenagers  to wear flowers. My mom used to be more stylish as she would wear either single roses (buds) in her hair or only freshly strung Jaadi jasmine. 

My choice of flowers

Though I would try wearing each of the flowers once for novelty, my preference during school were either Mullai (jasmine) or roses. I had rose plants which I would carefully tend to and I particularly remember the months of June and December in 2002 when I used to wear a pink button rose in my long plaited black hair every evening, regardless of the kind of clothes I wore. Now I hardly wear flowers as my ever thinning hair is unable to support the weight of flower strands.   I had to search really hard to find a picture of me with flowers and found one from 2010, below.

 Left: Moi with a jasmine strand and small rakodi 2010; Right: Moi with flower netting 2016

Floral Nets & Braids workshop

The main purpose of this workshop for me was to learn Netting, now that they are making a comeback in a big way. Those of you who are into beadweaving might recognise the patterns but the process here is slightly different. Bhuvana, gave me advise on how to choose the flowers, the kind of yarn to use and how to tie it to the braid and finish it. I made two broad nets with bigger buds (about 1.25 inches long with stalk) and two with mini buds (about 0.5-0.75 inches long with stalk).
 
hair net with flowers
Nets with bigger hybrid buds

This is how the nets are supposed to be worn – stitched to the braids and decorated with venis at the top. Bhuvana our Instructor, taught us how to wrap it on an artificial hair braid as seen below. Floral nets can also be used to create jewellery as shown in the Bhahubali video here.

Coming back to the plait, the tassels that you see at the end are called Kunjam or kujalam (in the south) and are black velvet balls with ornamented bead caps.They not only make the braids look fancy but also add weight which helps in keep the plait long and straight.  You also get parandha (Famous in Punjab) that are long colored tassels made of tinsel (ish) paper or soft yarn.

Floral Hair braids tamil wedding

So that was the end of the workshop and here is all what I made in Half a day. I was pretty happy with the end result but I know I have to really practice a lot if I have to make these to sell. Do I have the patience for it, only time will tell.

Floral Hair braids

Floral Nets & Braids – Making a comeback

I wore the bigger flower net to college the next day (see pic above) and roamed around the entire campus as I wanted the next generation students to see it, get curious and ask questions and hopefully in the process learn a little bit about India’s cultural heritage. It got a little kinked up by the end of the day but I enjoyed I all the attention I got wearing it. Indian culture, I believe, has survived for so long as we keep constantly reinventing it. So hopefully this new trend of floral nets and braids will keep the tradition of wearing flowers alive for a little longer

Then there is one more good news – WedMe Good one of the biggest Indian wedding sites have asked Sayuri to be their featured vendor for a month. I still cant believe that the industry thinks that I am a “Bridal Jewellery designer” 🙂 🙂 Do check out Sayuri’s profile at the website and rate us. 

I hope you found it interesting
 Cheers

  1. Neena Shilvock avatar

    Good luck with your newest avatar – the bridal jewellery designer!

  2. Nan Smith avatar

    What a fascinating look at the culture of India.Thank you for sharing, Divya. I really like the look of flowers in the hair and the nets look very cool. congrats on the bridal site opportunity. You deserve the recognition. You do lovely work.

  3. Michelle L. avatar

    Those are incredible – the beadweaving look is evident, but made of live flowers…oh my! Makes me want to grow my hair long and get married!!! Congratulations, so exciting to be a featured designer – I hope it makes your business grow in good ways.

  4. Little Treasures avatar

    Didn't know the history of flower wearing in your country – quite an interesting tradition and so sad it is quietly dying away. As for the netting – I am still in awe by the beautifulness of the flower garlands / headbands!

  5. Divya N avatar

    Haaa, Mitch. you dont need to get married to wear flowers in your hair – that is precisely the culture. you can wear it like a hair band too

  6. Divya N avatar

    The Indian belief is that culture can be kept alive, by continuously reinventing it. So hopefully this new trend of floral nets and braids will keep the tradition of wearing flowers alive for a little longer

  7. bairozan avatar

    Absolutely beautiful floral hair ornament and I always learn so much about your country's traditions from your blog. It is a pity that in Bulgaria traditional garments and decoration can be seen only in museums or folk festivals and performances!

  8. motidana avatar

    Enjoyed reading your post ! Both the parts 1 and 2 reminded me of the days I was made to wear such floral jewellery (much to my displeasure ) by my mom and grandmom. It was a religious practice during the `Shravan` month for young girls to fast and on the last day wear floral jewellery. The smell of flowers would fill the house , and between lots of chatter and laughter, the ladies of the family would sit with piles of freshly picked flowers , which they made into beautiful jewellery, with nimble fingers. Of course , now the girls don`t want to follow these practices and so , only memories are revived by looking at old photos. Reading about your new creations in flowers made me realize how much of our culture has changed . I am very happy that you are learning this technique,and I`m sure you will make lovely designs. ( I have a couple of old photos, that would interest you I think ).

  9. Divya N avatar

    Oh Pallavi, that's sounds so beautiful. My mom never had the patience for it so we just wore whatever the "pookarar" brought – nothing fancy – just strands of flowers. I would love to see those old pictures and understand how they were used traditionally

  10. Divya N avatar

    Thanks for your kind words Nan 🙂

  11. Divya N avatar

    I believe that when we try to stick (strictly) to confines of culture, the practice declines. Instead we should be flexible and try and adopt pieces of into our lives. Every Tradition was started by someone by tweaking an existing practice or reviving it, but we shy away from the word and avoid it instead of embracing it

  12. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Neena – it just means that I must work harder

  13. Cinnamon Jewellery avatar

    It's important that traditions and skills are passed along so it's good you have these classes to go to. I think all cultures have lost traditional skills along the way which is such a shame. The flowers look beautiful in your hair 😀
    Congrats on being a vendor on WedMe Good!

  14. Divya N avatar

    Thanks Tracy. Not everyone can learn traditional skils from their grandparents or parents as they might not have been interested in it. Thats where tutorials, classes come into play. So more people with traditional knowhow must come forward to teach interested people.

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